The Waltz inn in the Glockenbachviertel: Austrian cuisine – Munich

The Waltz inn is on Ickstattstrasse, cozy and well frequented, as if it has been here for as long as anyone can remember. But the opposite is the case: the Austrian restaurant, which looks like a traditional restaurant, has only been open since March of this year and immediately won a loyal audience. The young landlords Stefan Grabler and Markus Hirschler also come from Austria and run their culinary empire, which clearly stands out from the trendy gastronomy of the Glockenbachviertel, with visible enthusiasm.

To put it in new German, they follow the motto: Less is more. The highlight of the small menu lies in the combination of upscale Styrian-Austrian Beisl cuisine and refined variations, meat and ingredients come from regional, often organic producers.

To start at the very beginning: With the starters, the “summer salad” with pickled vegetables, which got its flavor from the deep green pumpkin seed oil, the trademark of Styria, was convincing (very, very tasty, but Peffekoven advises caution: there are drops of pumpkin seed oil on light-colored trousers a serious challenge); the creamed cucumbers gave the whole thing a freshness that was ideal for those warm summer evenings (11 euros). Pumpkin seed oil also characterized the wonderfully sour beef salad with crispy pepper beans (16 euros).

Typical of the creativity of the kitchen was the lamb neck (29 euros). The tender piece of neck is particularly tasty (“tastier”, said the nice waitress); it is slowly stewed at a low temperature and then briefly grilled, it is served as a visually pleasing green-brown combination with onion puree and beans, a hearty but never too fatty affair. As an intermediate course – what one does not do in the service of “tasting” – Peffekoven chose the salmon trout, a small portion of pickled fish, which is served with romaine lettuce and elderberry and tastes better with a dash of buttermilk (16 euros).

The “Austrian classics” should not be overlooked on the menu. There is the Styrian fried chicken, a simple dish that cannot really be refined, prepared with skill as here, but very tasty, with the thin breading easily separated from the chicken, as it should be in the pub (24 euros). A vegetarian accompanied by Peffekoven opted for the pointed peppers (22 euros), filled with rice, chanterelles (fresh chanterelles) and smoked sheep’s cheese.

For dessert, the group liked the perfect vanilla parfait with strawberries and elderberry (9 euros). Peffekoven was more fond of salty things and was pleasantly surprised by the mountain cheese mousse, which initially scared his heart because from the outside it looked like a large piece of cheese that he could no longer handle. A mistake: it was fluffy and fluffy, there were delicious red currants inside, and together with the walnut bread a perfect way to round off the evening (12 euros).

The guest room, partly paneled with light wood and free of any frills, with the beautiful wooden floor is comfortable; In this weather, of course, it is best to sit outside with a view of the old houses and the Glockenbach slope-walkers passing by. Peffekoven would like to say a word about the service – he’s one of the nicest he’s seen in Munich over the years: approachable without being intrusive, friendly, funny and competent, the two hosts are just like the ladies who look after them take care of the guests, even at peak times. And to be told that the very fine and open Maribor Blanc white wine from the Slovenian Stajerska wine-growing region has family similarities with wine from Styria, because “you hopped over the border there quickly”, that’s a pleasure.

Open detailed view

The 40-page wine list is one of the best far and wide anyway, with a lovingly and knowledgeably selected range from Germany, France, Italy and, of course, Austria, but also Slovenia and Hungary. You can tell from the expertise that the gentlemen previously ran the “Grapes” wine bar, only for example at the 2021 Gorca Furmint (50 euros) or the upscale Iglic Furmint (85 euros). The pleasure is not exactly cheap with steep upwards of 40 euros, but the quality is worth it. Of course, if you want to shake your drink, you should look for another location: A 0.1 liter glass of the pleasantly numerous open white wines can cost up to ten euros in the Waltz, which would mean 25 euros for the quarter, with red wine it goes even higher, and despite all the love it’s a bit intense.

So: better exercise restraint. In any case, the Waltz is a place of cultivated enjoyment – and as such is warmly recommended. Peffekoven wishes a long life in the tavern, so that one day the Waltz will actually be one of Munich’s traditional pubs.

Evaluation

Quality: 5/5 points

Service: 5/5 points

Atmosphere: 4/5 points

Value for money: 3/5 points

Waltz InnIckstattstraße 13, phone 089 / 9042 847, opening times Thursday to Monday from 6 p.m., reservation recommended

The SZ taster

The restaurant review “Tasting” of Süddeutsche Zeitung has a long tradition: it has been published weekly in the local section since 1975 and online for several years. About a dozen editors with culinary expertise from all departments – from Munich, science to politics – take turns writing about the city’s gastronomy. The choice is endless, the Bavarian economy is just as important as the Greek fish restaurant, the American fast food chain, the special bratwurst stand or the gourmet restaurant decorated with stars. The special thing about the SZ taster: The authors write under pseudonyms, often with a culinary touch. They go into the restaurant to be tested unnoticed about two or three times, depending on how long the budget given by the editors lasts. Iron basic rules: a grace period of one hundred days for the kitchen of a new restaurant to familiarize itself. And: never get caught at work as a restaurant critic – in order to be able to describe food and drink, service and atmosphere impartially.