Gastronomic reinvention is a difficult thing. According to the regular guests, a restaurant that has been around for 40 or more years should not keep up with the times, but should remain as it has always been. Until then at some point in the bar then the people who always sit there, and nobody else.
In case of Bogenhauser Hof, the aging celebrity bar for professional politicians, business leaders and not just former footballers from FC Bayern, was due for a lengthy thorough renovation, which is why the new orientation was appropriate anyway. The noble Bavarian has now been open again for the upscale clientele for twelve days.
It presents itself with noble wallpaper and expensive interior on the ground floor as well as an extravagant flamingo room on the first floor, which you should definitely not visit when under the influence of drugs, because it is already reminiscent of the descriptions of LSD experiments. Also upstairs is a “Südtiroler Stube”, which is not a homage to Alfons Schuhbeck, but to the origin of Carlo Rieder, one of the two new hosts. The young cook takes care of the kitchen Hannes Reckziegel, previously head chef at the Schwarzreiter in the Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten, where he was awarded a star in the Michelin Guide. His cuisine is a surprisingly harmonious fusion of Asian, Mediterranean and Bavarian-regional ingredients.
The sashimi from the salmon trout is very fine, the braised shoulder of lamb is a bit rich and surrounded by a lot of chichi. As a reminiscence of the past, there is also a lobster foam soup. All undoubtedly of high quality. And the prices? You are in Munich’s finest residential area within the city limits and not in Hinterpfuideifi. But around 25 euros for starters and entrées and 35 to 50 euros for a main course are now almost cheap again. The four-course menu currently costs 98 euros (Bogenhauser Hof, Ismaninger Straße 85, Monday to Saturday 11:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m., phone 98 55 86, www.bogenhauserhof.de).
The Mural Farmhouse in Obersendling, which has just been awarded a Michelin star after a year of existence, gives its guests hope that its roof terrace will open soon. Probably in June, if the rainy weather hasn’t washed away the entire roof garden by then. First of all, however, there is a Sunday Mother’s Day Menu with four courses for the price of 75 euros (Mural Farmhouse, Gmunder Straße 27, Mother’s Day menu on Sunday, May 14, phone 262 08 90 79, www.muralfarmhouse.de).