A stay in a restaurant should always be pleasant. You only go to a dive bar to numb yourself, not to dine nicely. At some point in the 1980s, however, the pleasant surroundings grew into an ambience that was very important. Then places became important where you felt like you were at Croesus’ home or on a glamorous yacht on the Côte d’Azur. At the moment, restaurants that resemble designer studios are in vogue. An Italian recently opened in Maxvorstadt who works closely with an Italian design house and wants to regularly sell his inventory to his guests after a few months of use.
That goes as far as Doma – the name reveals a waiter when asked, is Croatian and means “at home” or “at home” – of course not. There used to be a down-to-earth pizzeria here on Viktualienmarkt, which the owner gave up in a hurry one day. Then it was long and very laboriously renovated, shortly before the planned opening, the second lockdown came. But then it started in the Doma. The opulent interior is strikingly reminiscent of an expensive lamp shop and, facing the street, the hotel bar of a five-star hotel.
In the back area, by the open show kitchen, you can watch the cooks at work while they are eating. That is well worth seeing; With the young Austrian Peter Wiedner, a top chef from Carinthia has been brought in, who has also worked in the two-star Horváth restaurant in Berlin. It is also praiseworthy that he attaches great importance to the origin of his products, pays attention to animal welfare and prefers organically produced ingredients. In the beginning there were only natural wines in the open bar, which are not so easy to drink. Meanwhile, there is also a Grüner Veltliner Am Berg from Ott (7.50 euros for 0.15 liters) or a Sauvignon Blanc from Knipser (7.00 / 0.15).
The lobster number: The crustacean is breaded in the Doma and served on strongly heated corn kernels (the layman calls it popcorn).
(Photo: Robert Haas)
The demonstrative commitment to sustainability is nice and also goes well with simple plates such as organic beef tartare with moux mustard cream and mustard salad (22.50), Carinthian ham and pork belly (18.50) or “bread & butter” , consisting of sourdough bread with butter in pretzel form and chives (6.50). Incidentally, one would be happy to finally come across a high-priced restaurant in Munich that doesn’t get its bread from the fine baker Julius Brantner. Because almost everyone is bragging about it, and Doma is no exception.
Otherwise you can also let it rip on the menu. There you will find six premium oysters from the Munich delicatessen house Fred & Williams with Ponzu vinaigrette and pumpernickel (27.50), Siberian caviar (75.00 for 50 grams) or beluga caviar as a special edition (200.00 for 50 grams). Sturm rather shamefully withholds the prices for 125 grams. And then there is baked lobster with popcorn. Is there any added value in breading lobster and placing it on a bowl full of hot corn kernels, even if garnished with nori seaweed and chili mayonnaise? Of course not. It’s actually just something like bubble tea for the higher ranks, a slightly frivolous gimmick.
The Doma, which means “at home”, resides on Viktualienmarkt in a former down-to-earth pizzeria.
(Photo: Robert Haas)
But well, that is sure to go down well with the newly rich in Eastern Europe on city tours in the West. The Doma has a lot more to offer – despite its clear monthly menu. At first, the joy of experimentation was overwhelming. Black beluga lentils, pak choi and green strawberries together with nut butter (32.50) were found with the golden trout, whereby the trout skin came along a bit. In the meantime, the fish main course (34.50) has become a beautiful char with crispy fried skin and gram ravioli and parsley root as side dishes. Fits better. For meat eaters, the menu includes saddle of lamb with a potato roulade filled with mushroom farce and vegetables from yellow zucchini (39.50) or a perfectly grilled saddle of venison with juniper, Jerusalem artichoke and cranberries (39.50) in unusual variations and forms, but very nicely prepared.
The vegetarians are also properly served. The baked cauliflower with elderberry, coconut and black bread crumble (18.50) has now disappeared from the menu and has been replaced by beetroot with sweet potatoes, seasoned with the Indian garam-masal mixture (19.50). Of course, the highlight was the salsify and pumpkin salad (18.50), because of the finely cut pumpkin slices and the pecan cream with the mascarpone swabs and parsley oil, if we tasted it right.
The Süddeutsche Zeitung’s restaurant review “Tasting” has a long tradition: it has been published weekly in the local section since 1975, and for several years also online and with a rating scale. About a dozen editors with culinary experience from all departments – from Munich, knowledge to politics – take turns writing about the city’s gastronomy. The choice is endless, the Bavarian economy is just as important as the Greek fish restaurant, the American fast food chain, the special bratwurst stand or the gourmet restaurant decorated with stars. The special thing about the SZ tasting: The authors write under pseudonyms, often with a culinary touch. You go undetected to the restaurant to be tested about two to three times, depending on how long the budget set by the editorial team lasts. Iron basic rules: a hundred days grace period until the kitchen of a new restaurant has settled in. And: Never get caught working as a restaurant critic – so that you can describe food and drink, service and atmosphere in an unbiased manner. SZ
Yes, you can eat really well at Doma. But also really expensive, which is why we saved ourselves the desserts: We found 12.50 euros for a piece of apple strudel or 14.50 for a small lemon tart a bit steep. We seem to have understood that by now: The prices for the “Chefs Choice” menu have been reduced from initially 95 euros for four courses and 125 euros for five courses to 85 and 105 euros. However, you still pay 65 euros for three courses. At home, too, you take it from the living.
Address: Prälat-Zistl-Straße 10, 80331 Munich, phone: 089/46225315, opening times: Monday to Thursday 11.30 a.m. to 1 a.m. and Friday and Saturday 11.30 a.m. to 2 a.m. www.doma-restaurant.de