Norbert Tarayre, new chef at the Prince of Wales, wants to make palace cuisine more accessible

Tapas after work, dishes to share and a dish-dessert formula at 30 euros. On the menu of a Parisian palace, it could get people talking. Except that inflation has passed by and that the bling-bling in the kitchen is less of a dream. In the press release announcing his departure from Not Parisian Bistros at the beginning of June, Norbert Tarayre specified that he would return to “the stoves of a legendary establishment in the Parisian golden triangle”. It will therefore be atPrince of Wales hotel where he will take the lead, at the beginning of October, restaurant 19.20 to offer a cuisine… anything but “palace”. “I’m getting the trouillometer back to level, he assured this Wednesday morning at a press conference. And it will do me good. »

The chef with multiple hats – business manager, host, comedian – announces that he now intends to refocus on bistronomy cuisine, citing Yves Camdeborde or Christian Etchebest among his mentors, or legendary addresses such as Maxim’s, le Train Bleu or the Relais de l’entrecôte, which he adores. “I’m also a stone’s throw from Christian Le Squer, the chef of Le Cinq at the neighboring George V, and not far either from Jean Imbert, Éric Frechon or Yannick Alleno”, he announces with greed in the voice.

Veal shank with the bone

“We’re going on a short menu, with dishes to share like veal shank on the bone, ribs of beef… or a large cauliflower, “like at Miznon”, the Israeli restaurant in the Marais that he discovered during confinement. “There will be 75% vegetable protein,” he promises. But also an omelet “with eggs, the hen of which I know – her name is Janine” and a fresh dough “different every day”… In short, Norbert Tarayre is embarking on a cuisine that he wants “as accessible as possible” , a bistro kitchen, a grandmother’s kitchen, with a constant concern “for sourcing, local products, sustainable development, energy savings, waste recycling, attention to plastics”…

“During the nine years I spent at Bistrots Pas parisiens, I built up quite an address book of quality producers and suppliers,” he says. I’m not into society directories, but more into mussels, butter and hazelnut oil. “The chef also assures that he will” bring out the old plates “of the Prince of Wales. And maybe also the old pots from which come the best soups.

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