The landlord of the traditional Donisl restaurant and the Bräurosl festival tent at the Oktoberfest, Peter Reichert, occasionally stops at another restaurant on the way home. In the Ederer restaurant of the Munich top chef Karl Ederer on Lindwurmstrasse, whose upscale regional cuisine he greatly appreciates. It was during one of these visits that the idea for “Donisl’s Culinarium” arose.
The upper floor of the tavern on Marienplatz is often unused because guests prefer to sit downstairs in the tavern or outside in the free bar area at the town hall, and Reichert wanted to have a slightly different concept up there than downstairs anyway. And so you can now not only dine Bavarian, but almost royally under the glass ceiling and with a view from the gallery of the dining room on the ground floor.
Once a month on a Sunday, usually from 4 p.m. to 7 p.m. – Reichert: “so that you can get there in time crime scene “is back home” – you meet in Donisl for the “culinarium”. This consists of a four-course menu, presented by a special chef (there isn’t one there yet, but that can still happen). The subtitle says it all: “Upscale, but not aloof.”
The motto probably comes from Karl Ederer, who also practiced rhyming when presenting the program: “With stars, without stars, everyone likes to cook.” And as Reichert’s operations manager and partner Franziska Kohlpaintner adds: “Cooking with regional products is something that everyone has.” The four courses are accompanied each time by a different winemaker who selects the most suitable plants for the chefs’ regional ingredients. In contrast to the menus, the wines are on the house menu all year round.
The opening event, at which Karl Ederer served his menu, was fully booked weeks in advance. There are still places available for the second round with Thomas Thielemann on May 5th. Thielemann was head chef at the organic restaurant Schweinsbräu at Gut Herrmannsdorf near Glonn for a long time. Previously, Eckart Witzigmann student Ederer – he was sous chef in his three-star restaurant Aubergine – was in charge there after he won a Michelin star with his own restaurant Glockenbach in 1983. He later opened the Ederer restaurant in the Fünf Höfe. At Thomas Thielemann, too, the main product is the focus of each course.
Martin Rehmann, head chef at the Rait’ner Wirt in Schleching im Chiemgau, will follow on June 16th. He took over the country inn there in 2018; he had previously received a Michelin star at the age of 28. On July 7th there will be four courses from Raffaele Troisi, who worked at Ederer after his culinary apprenticeship and then on Sylt as well as in Austria and Switzerland. Today he runs the Raffa’s restaurant in Pfaffenhofen an der Ilm. At Kulinarium it stands for crossover cuisine from the border triangle of (southern) Germany, Austria and Italy.
In summer and autumn the cuisine really turns up again. On August 11th, two-star chef Hubert Obendorfer from the Eisvogel restaurant in Neunburg vorm Wald will be a guest, and on September 1st, Michael Seitz, head chef from the Nuremberg fine-dining restaurant Imperial, which is part of the culinary empire of the Franconian star chef Alexander Herrmann. Another two-star chef follows on October 20th with Andreas Mayer, who is considered one of the best chefs in Austria and who is still strongly influenced by French cuisine. Today he runs his own restaurant Mayer’s in the Hotel Schloss Prielau in Zell am See. Burkard Metz then takes the preliminary shot, while the Oktoberfest chef in the Bräurosl. The time will come on November 10th, and by then he should have recovered from the Oktoberfest.
Tickets for “Donisls Kulinarium” cost at least 79 euros per person (without wine accompaniment), depending on the date, and can be purchased at www.donisl.com get booked.