Butter had degenerated into an industrial product. But gourmet artisans across Europe are working with passion to breathe flavor and structure back into it. Visiting two Lower Bavarians who are on the trail of the secret of the right butter.
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Julia Rothhaas
Moritz Oswald and Fabio de Mesquita knew even before they started their cooking training that a chef without butter can get by just as badly as a marathon runner without sensible shoes, especially in traditional France. They were then surprised at the astonishing quantities they had to process during their three years at the “Institut Paul Bocuse” in Lyon. “Butter was everywhere,” says Moritz Oswald.