Oktoberfest host Michael Schottenhammel, Peter and Julian Kinner now run the Emmeramsmühle in Oberföhring. Their Bavarian cuisine is usually convincing, but it comes at a price.
By Johanna N. Hummel
Rebranding requires a lot of sensitivity; after all, a familiar brand name is tinkered with, often to the point that people don’t like it. Sometimes changes happen very carefully. For example, if you drive along St. Emmeram Street in Oberföhring, through an Isar meadow landscape that could hardly be more beautiful, past meadows and grazing sheep, then you come to the listed St. Emmeramsmühle. The name has long been written on the yellow facade in old-fashioned letters. This has now changed in the inn and on the website, the St. has disappeared there, only the memorial chapel opposite is responsible for blessing the saint. The business is now called Emmeramsmühle or Emmerams, which feels like you’re on a first-name basis with the house.