“They have aged like their customers”… On the grill, Flunch, Del Arte and others seek to reinvent themselves

One celebrated its fiftieth anniversary in 2021. The other will celebrate its fortieth anniversary next year. Suffice to say that the Flunch and Del Arte chains are ancestors in a constantly evolving world of catering. Among these historic brands, we also don’t forget Courtepaille, Buffalo Grill or Hippopotamus, all born when France was still listening to yé-yé and dancing disco. For years, all these chains have experienced exponential growth, opening restaurants or franchise establishments everywhere in the country.

It was then the time when the French went “flunching” with family or friends, devouring a steak and fries as much as they wanted in small round houses with thatched roofs or in a setting populated by cowboys and Indians. . Always with the promise of eating casually and without breaking the bank too much. Yes, but here we are, the golden age of these old glories of catering is now over and all of them have found themselves in great difficulties for several years. “These chains have stood the test of time thinking that they would withstand anything,” underlines Bernard Boutboul, president of Gira Conseil and catering expert. But they have aged like their customers. »

Dozens of restaurants closed during the crisis

Aged but also lost a lot of feathers. During the health crisis, which shook the catering sector, Flunch closed around fifty restaurants and was placed in safeguard procedure for several months. “The Covid hurt us very badly, we almost didn’t recover,” recognizes Hervé Rampal, general manager of Flunch, owned by the Mulliez family (Auchan, Décathlon, Leroy Merlin, etc.). A bleeding from which his competitors did not escape, starting with Courtepaille. Partially bought in June by the La Boucherie group, the chain lost nearly 130 restaurants and left nearly a thousand employees in the lurch. “The Covid dealt a fatal blow to these chains but they have already been suffering for around ten years,” assures Bernard Boutboul.

How to explain such disenchantment? There is of course the behavior of customers which has changed with French people who go to restaurants less than before and have changed the contents of their plate. But the big chains were unable to anticipate or even respond to all of this. “Their concept has not changed a single millimeter and today they are paying a high price,” insists the president of Gira Conseil. Over the years, these chains have fallen into disrepair with restaurants often compared to vulgar canteens. In an interview given in 2022 to ParisianBaptiste Bayart, new CEO of Flunch, himself spoke of “the somewhat dull platter, the meal eaten lukewarm in an old-fashioned decor”.

Channels shunned by younger generations

In the meantime, the catering offer has also exploded, mainly fast food whose brands have invaded the streets. Tacos, tenders, salad bowls and other burgers have thus won the hearts of younger generations, who were already shunning these large historical chains anyway. “These brands don’t speak when you’re 20 or 30,” emphasizes Bernard Boutboul. In the midst of the doldrums, Flunch, Del Arte and others have no other choice but to evolve or risk being definitively forgotten. “We will never return to our pre-crisis level anyway, so we must urgently carry out this transformation” specifies Philippe Jean, general manager of Del Arte, who wants to make his restaurants “destination places and no longer places of flow “.

This starts with a change of scenery. Buffalo Grill has thus abandoned its Wild West universe while Flunch is gradually reviewing the interior of all its restaurants. “We are no longer ashamed to show them now,” smiles Hervé Rampal, who recently witnessed the transformation of the Rennes restaurant. It is also in the Breton capital, on the land of its owner Louis Le Duff, that Del Arte inaugurated its new concept of bar-restaurant Renata a month ago. A place that targets a younger clientele with a “happy hour” formula, or rather “aperitivo” in its Italian version, with boards and pizzas to share and the broadcast of sports matches. “We are not abandoning our historic clientele,” assures Philippe Jean. But in certain restaurants, we are reviewing the model to seek out new customers. »

New à la carte dishes and digitalization

This is the case at the restaurant in Joué-lès-Tours (Indre-et-Loire), more focused on digital and click and collect. Or the one in Nanterre, which focuses on snacking and takeaways. At Flunch, we also reviewed the menu. There are of course the great classics like fries and unlimited vegetables. But in several restaurants, new corners have appeared in recent months with woks, grilled meat and fish, burgers or pizzas which are served to customers. “We must respond to all culinary styles and all generations,” indicates Hervé Rampal, also announcing the forced digitalization of all restaurants in the coming months.

Will this be enough to turn things around? “These channels are condemned to evolve anyway and to test new concepts,” warns Bernard Boutboul. But I think this concept of a general restaurant is screwed. »

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