Alexander Wulf represents Russian cuisine in Germany like no other. His work was awarded a Michelin star today. Since the Ukraine invasion, however, he has been exposed to hostilities on a daily basis. We spoke to him about what it does to him personally and how he deals with it.
Today is actually a good day: head chef Alexander Wulf and his team have been awarded a Michelin star for their Troyka restaurant. The accolade for every chef and the reward for many years of hard work.
But today there is also war. It has been 14 days since Putin ordered an invasion of Ukraine. A war the world disagrees with.
Cancellations have been increasing at Alexander Wulf for 14 days. “Supposedly the guests have Corona,” says the star chef in an interview with the star. Alexander Wulf is Russian-German. Born in Siberia, raised in Kazakhstan, he emigrated to Germany at the age of nine. “Germany is my homeland, my roots are in Russia,” he says. He’s actually proud of his origins and his cuisine, he serves Russian haute cuisine. With dishes that can be found not only in Russia, but also in Kazakhstan, Georgia and Ukraine.
Everything is upside down today.
It’s one of the most emotional conversations I’ve ever had. We have to take short breaks several times because the star chef is overwhelmed by his emotions. Despite the difficult situation, Alexander Wulf would like to use his voice: to speak out against the war, to show solidarity with the people from Ukraine and to stand up to hostilities.
Congratulations on the Michelin star, Mr. Wulf! How do you feel?
I dedicate this star to my Ukrainian and Russian colleagues. Two weeks ago, the Michelin star would have meant everything to me personally. Today it’s just a side issue. Of course, I still try to be happy about it because my team worked way too hard for it. But right now it just breaks my heart.
Your Troyka restaurant in Erkelenz-Immerath has only been open for three months, despite Corona, you were named climber of the year and received the Michelin star. Now there is war in Ukraine. How do you manage not to lose your mind when it feels like there are so many stones in the way?
If it continues like this, I don’t know how I’m going to be able to endure it mentally. I condemn this war. I talk to both Ukrainian and Russian chefs for hours and offer myself as an interlocutor. I have a German passport, I didn’t vote for Putin. I try to communicate that to the outside world. I’m often overwhelmed by my feelings, but I try to be strong. This is very hard.
You are the only star chef with Russian roots and you serve Russian haute cuisine. Have you experienced hostilities since the Ukraine invasion?
Many many.
In which form?
I get terrible emails. That the “blood of Ukrainian children is on my hands”, that I am “a warmonger”. My daughter was taken out of class and asked how we felt about Putin. My son is seething, he shows no tears, but I can feel his tension. Suddenly the country where his father was born is being badmouthed. I was at a peace rally in my town of Erkelenz, I felt the looks. As a Russian-German you are now a target for attack. I’ve lived here for 30 years. For 30 years I’ve been working on getting rid of the “shitty Russian” stamp: with my cooking, with my actions, with my humanity and with my love for people. I have friends from all over the world. Many of them are Ukrainians. And yet I am judged.
Did you also notice this in the booking situation?
Yes, many bookings have been cancelled. Supposedly the guests have Corona. But percentage-wise there are definitely more cancellations since the war broke out.
They have taken a clear stand against the war on social media and expressed solidarity with Ukraine. How do you deal with the hostilities, do you ignore them or do you accept them?
It destroys me mentally. This is not good. And yet I have to go through this now. I write with Ukrainian chefs in Ukraine almost every day. It’s hard and it’s not good, but I want them to know that we’re all human. That we don’t want war. We’re trying to convince people that this isn’t our war. We have several events in March and we cook for peace. Every cent is donated to Ukrainian refugees. We drive to the Polish border and cook for refugees. We have registered to take in two Ukrainian families. We don’t care that we don’t have space. We want to set an example. And nevertheless …
Do you have personal connections to Russia?
Naturally. Just last year we were in St. Petersburg, where I met hundreds of chefs and hundreds of people. It was a wonderful time. Then we traveled further into the country, to my wife’s homeland. Which is also against the war, which Putin did not vote for. We have many friends in Russia.
Many Russian-Germans or people with Russian roots feel compelled to take a stand. If you don’t do it, you will be “sanctioned” here, so to speak, but if you do, you may lose everything in Russia.
If you had family in Russia, would you do that? If you live here in a free country and are allowed to express your opinion, it’s one thing. But what about my family in Russia? I also feel this resistance and of course I think about what I can say. But I’m also in the public eye and if I’m asked, I’ll give my opinion. If I don’t, who will? It hurts, it’s just an unspeakable pain.
How do your relatives in Russia deal with madness?
They don’t understand what we’re talking about here. You only see on television that it is a liberation against fascism. They don’t see houses being bombed and people dying. It’s hard to get to them. That makes me crazy.
How do you see your home country today?
I read an open letter from Friedrich Merz that describes my thoughts exactly. When I think of Russia I think of Pushkin, the landscape, the cuisine and probably the most hospitable people on earth.
Were you aware that politics could have such an impact on the culinary arts?
Absolutely not. The kitchen is actually there to show the beautiful sides of life. But I never thought it possible that I could no longer be happy about representing Russian cuisine.
You have always emphasized your origins and of course used them to build your “brand”.
It’s not a brand, that’s my feeling. We had a lot of success with it and actually still do. I was born in Russia, it’s not my fault. I love this country and the people, but I hate this war. The war destroys everything.
You have worked towards success for 30 years. Do you regret today that you chose Russian haute cuisine?
No, although we discussed it. But it was the right decision. Being a Russian chef is not a dirty word. We have to get through it now, I just hope we come out of it strong. We are using the time now to build bridges with Essen. We got a Michelin star as a Russian restaurant, that’s a bridge.
What makes your kitchen so special?
In principle, my kitchen is characterized by the fact that we depict the entire Eastern block. I grew up in Kazakhstan, and I have a huge heart for the kitchen there. When I competed against Tim Mälzer on the cooking show “Kitchen Impossible”, it was important to me that he had to cook a Kazakh dish. It’s difficult to define Russian cuisine because it’s influenced by all of its neighbors, and that’s the beauty of it. We are brothers. One does not wage war against brothers.
What are your hopes for the future?
I just want peace.