Gone stupid. As soon as this sample went to press last autumn, the new lockdown also slammed the door of the specialty economy. Which of course made a taste senseless. Since then, the knowledge gathered about this Untersendlingen inn has slumbered, only to finally see the light of day, enriched with current experiences. The shop has survived, thanks in part to loyal to-go customers, and thus remains in a neighborhood in which sometimes even real Bavarian is spoken. And one still remembers how one heard the sheep’s head cards slam on the table after entering for the first time and how joy spread in the hope of a cozy evening in a pub.
But now loin and company, because the weather allows it, prefer to sit outside on the noisy Implerstraße and remember the menu of yore, which can be called up using a QR code and, as now, the roast pork was missing, as the mantra of the shop was written: “Yes to tradition, Yeah to progress!” Part of the progress is that the Blaufränkischer glass is shown at 3.80 euros for 0.1 liters. This also fits post coronam with the 0.1 wine cheek that is rampant in Munich. But that makes Loin grumpy, which is why he goes on a wine strike in such a case.
It wasn’t long ago that the Löwenbrauerei decided to give the restaurant a new image after a rather inglorious era and to offer the premises on the corner of Implerstrasse and Oberländerstrasse to landlord Philipp Hanrieder, who was looking for something new. Hanrieder already runs a restaurant with the same name in Haidhausen. Lo and behold: you should make a reservation today to get a seat.
Even back then, in autumn, it felt like you had landed in a mixture of Berlin hipsterism and Bavarian sentiment. The ambience is limited to white, barely decorated walls and dark wood, to heavy tables with knotholes and worn garden chairs, the original blue of which can still be seen to some extent.
And then came the starters, two for four with a three-part dipset and a small tartare (10.80 and 11.80 euros). The fact that there were no starter plates to go with it was strange, as some of the not too bazzy Obazdn fell from the fork onto the table, the very green pea cream tasted strongly of its name, as did the potato cheese. The tartare was finely seasoned and sharpened with a strong dash of mustard (14). General satisfaction at Lende’s table.
The atmosphere in the special economy lies somewhere between Berlin hipsterism and Bavarian sentiment.
(Photo: Stephan Rumpf)
That changed, at least partially, with the main course. If the spinach dumplings, garnished with walnuts and parmesan (13.80), hardly aroused criticism, you heard from the corner with the Mariposa Sportler Bowl (14.80), soft complaints that the vinegar was all too setting the tone here otherwise so fresh salad mix. Frown also where the baked roast beef was served with mashed potatoes (18.90). Why, at Lukull, do you use breading to drive the roast beef out of its roast beef and thus also its normally increasing pink tenderness?
Desperation then with Lende himself, who ordered a baked venison schnitzel (21.80), accompanied by a potato salad with Brussels sprouts (!), An all too bold composition. The schnitzel itself: a disaster. No, that was, Loin would bet his right arm, not an upper shell, but some kind of flaky scrap. In addition, the upper and lower edges of the knife with which the loin tried to get hold of the sinewy deer part were almost identical, i.e. unsuitable for cutting. Loin did what it could, but gave up just before halfway through.
A few days later (currently 22), the Wiener Schnitzel proved that there was another way. It was tender, as it should be, even if the breading was plentifully fat and not very crispy. The piece of sirloin advertised as a steak (at 27.50 euros for 220 grams you should actually expect a fillet) also turned out almost as smooth as it should be.
The Süddeutsche Zeitung’s restaurant review “Tasting” has a long tradition: it has been published weekly in the local section since 1975, and for several years also online and with a rating scale. Around a dozen editors with culinary experience from all departments – from Munich, Knowledge to Politics – take turns writing about the city’s gastronomy. The choice is endless, the Bavarian economy is just as important as the Greek fish restaurant, the American fast food chain, the special bratwurst stand or the gourmet restaurant decorated with stars. The special thing about the SZ tasting: The authors write under pseudonyms, often with a culinary touch. You go undetected to the restaurant to be tested about two to three times, depending on how long the budget set by the editorial team lasts. Iron basic rules: a hundred days grace period until the kitchen of a new restaurant has settled in. And: Never get caught working as a restaurant critic – to be able to describe the food and drink, service and atmosphere in an unbiased way. SZ
The test now in the post-lockdown phase showed that the pleasure of the special hosts in the gentle revolution of Bavarian cuisine has not been lost. For example with the baked obazdn, the classic starter parnished in six globules, which tasted splendidly spicy, but just as splendidly filled the stomach (6). The cook worked on the celery risotto for a long time, just as it should be – a combination that encourages you to cook again (12). The Alt-Sendlinger Backfleisch was a historical tutoring session, because three breaded boiled boiled beef slices have never been found in any cookbook. The meat was wonderfully tender, the breading didn’t matter, and the underlaid celery puree went perfectly (17).
To sum up, Lendes Runde feels that no meat dishes have been designated as “organic” as not being in keeping with the times. The service is almost friendly and cheerful. The young audience is obviously happy to have found a cheerful alternative in the quarter, which is garnished with good, but somewhat conservative, gastronomy.
Address: Implerstraße 47, 81371 Munich, phone: 089/76757593, opening times Tuesday to Saturday 5pm to 1am, Sunday 6pm to 10pm, [email protected], www.spezlwirtschaft.me