Munich and Bavaria: culture and leisure tips from Kerstin Holzer – Munich

The new book is heartbreakingly beautiful to read, says Elke Heidenreich. Frido Mann finds it electrifying to the last line. What is meant is the current novel by the Munich-based author Kerstin Holzer, who after the Portrait of Elisabeth Mann Borghese (2003) now dedicated to another daughter of Thomas Mann: “Monascella” describes the life of Monika Mann, who was considered an eccentric and always stood in the shadow of her dazzling sister. Holzer will read from it on May 9th in Bad Tölz in the Winzerer bookstore. Before that, she has other inspiring plans.

Monday: underrated woman

Most only knew Thomas Mann’s underestimated daughter Monika as “stupid Mönle”. What a mistake!

(Photo: private/dtv)

Since I decided to become a freelance writer two years ago, there are no regular business hours in my everyday life. I used to work for Madame magazine, and as nice as that was (love!), my busy schedule often left only five-minute breaks between updates and meetings. Now there are whole days without appointments, like this Monday. Before you think: “That’s a good start!” – that’s what I was working on this weekend. Although … was that “work” to read from my current book at the “Unterhachinger Reading Night”? In “Monascella – Monika Mann and her life on Capri” (dtv) I tell about Thomas Mann’s underestimated daughter Monika, whom most only know as “stupid Mönle”. She was considered an oddball in the famous family of writers, and exile threw her completely off track. It was only in the 1950s that she discovered Capri, her longing place, and there, in her mid-40s, she found her voice as a writer, a home and love. An exciting life, full of tragic and touching twists like in a novel.

Tuesday: The female gaze

Celebrity tips for Munich and Bavaria: Inge Morath's photograph of a llama in New York's Times Square in 1957. The exhibition of Morath's photographs runs until May 1 in the art foyer of the Versicherungskammer.

Inge Morath’s photograph of a llama in New York’s Times Square in 1957. The exhibition of Morath’s photographs runs until May 1st in the art foyer of the Versicherungskammer.

(Photo: Inge Morath/Magnum Photos/courtesy CLAIRbyKahn)

Anyone who, like me, is interested in complicated family histories and also in literature and art should not miss the Inge Morath retrospective. I’ll take a look at it today, because it only runs until May 1st in the art foyer of the Versicherungskammer München. Morath was the first woman to join Magnum’s illustrious circle of photographers, and was also the wife of Pulitzer Prize winner Arthur Miller (who was once married to Marilyn Monroe). Their daughter Rebecca Miller is a director, but her brother, who was born with Down syndrome, was placed in a home, apparently at Arthur Miller’s instigation. When I look at Inge Morath’s sensitive, warm portraits, I wonder what sacrifice that must have meant for her as a mother.

Wednesday: Reading from your favorite store

Virginie Despentes, who has been called a “pornographic riot feminist” on the one hand and compared to Balzac on the other, was supposed to be a guest at the Munich Literature House, one of my favorite addresses in the city. If that doesn’t sound interesting, I don’t know what does. Because she is an artist, she unfortunately took the liberty of canceling for today. As a consolation, I get her new work, “Dear Asshole,” a portrait of “Me Too” and abuse of power, from the Lehmkuhl bookstore in Schwabing. And also “Still awake?”, brand new by Benjamin von Stuckrad-Barre. According to hearsay this is a tell-all about abuse of power in the media world – I’m really curious.

Thursday: Greek delicacies

Celebrity tips for Munich and Bavaria: The Ola Kala on Kaiserstraße offers modern Greek cuisine, such as a grilled octopus skewer in this look.

The Ola Kala on Kaiserstraße offers modern Greek cuisine, such as a grilled octopus skewer in this look.

(Photo: Robert Haas)

Luxembourg star chef Léa Linster is celebrating her birthday today, so I give her a call. Several years ago I shared with her wrote down their life story, we’ve been in touch ever since. Since I’m not a passionate cook myself, I at least go out to eat well in her honor, at my place around the corner in Schwabing. Ola Kala on Kaiserstrasse serves modern Greek cuisine (the grilled octopus!). I sometimes meet the hostess Christina and her dog in the park for a walk, then we dream together of our favorite Cycladic islands.

Friday: Spring Fever

Speaking of the walk: Like every morning, I take my borzoi for a walk in the wild northern part of the English Garden. She loves to take Kneipp therapy with her long legs in the Oberstmeisterjägerbach. Near the amphitheater a gnarled willow grows across the creek, it’s particularly beautiful there. After that: final sprint before the weekend. I’m currently researching my new book, so I sit at my desk every day.

Saturday: Spectacular pools

Celebrity tips for Munich and Bavaria: A waterfall in the Kleine Wolfsschlucht near Wildbad Kreuth.

A waterfall in the Kleine Wolfsschlucht near Wildbad Kreuth.

(Photo: imago images/imagebroker)

We are often in Kreuth at the weekend. In this proud village south of Lake Tegernsee, Kermit green Lamborghinis and soccer stars make no impression, very likeable. We walk from Wildbad Kreuth to Siebenhütten, always along the Hofbauernweißach. There are already pools here, and a little further in the Kleine Wolfsschlucht at the foot of the Blauberge you will find spectacular pools in the washed-out rock. A fairytale landscape. On the way back, reality grabs us: hunger. In the ducal fish farm we get char rolls, then we go back to Munich. Tomorrow I have something like an appointment!

Sunday: brunch with swing

Namely the jazz brunch in the Munich Literature House. In the brasserie it’s “Oskar Maria swings”: a cheerful morning accompanied by Parisian gypsy sound and very tasty because of the Eggs Benedict in “Oskar Maria”. “Come on, everyone!”, as my friend Marion Bösker-von Paucker, who is responsible for irresistible public relations at the Literaturhaus, likes to call out.

Kerstin Holzer, born in 1967, lives as a freelance author in Munich. As a journalist, she most recently worked as deputy editor-in-chief of the magazine “Madame”. As an author, she wrote a portrait of the Luxembourg star chef Lea Linster and the Spiegel bestsellers “Elisabeth Mann Borgese – a life portrait” and “Monascella – Monika Mann and her life on Capri”.

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