In London’s grand hotels, it’s almost mandatory to offer afternoon tea. And from the British capital, this beautiful tradition has spread all over the world. “Only in Germany has it not really gained a foothold,” says Ian Baker with mild reproach. “We want to help make sure that changes.”
The head pastry chef at the Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten on Maximilianstraße, who was born in London himself, has come up with a number of ideas for this. Of course not without presenting the classics. In addition to small sandwiches and a wide variety of teas, these include scones, slightly dry balls of dough that are eaten with jam and “clotted cream”, a specialty made of thickened cream that originally comes from the counties of Devon and Cornwall.
But these are just the basics, as the English say, on which further delicacies are then built. They are presented in the almost royal Nymphenburg room of the hotel. That is not only because of its neo-baroque decoration, but also because the porcelain manufactory provided the equipment. From the teacup to the Étagères – the tiered trays on which food is served on the table. One feels a bit like a rich merchant, a shipowner or at least an authorized officer of the East India Company at the time of Dickens, and actually it would not be at all surprising if Charles III. would lurch over.
In any case, Ian Baker and Korbinian Pinzenöller, head chef for development and training, together contributed a lot of top confectionary achievements and other, rather salty artistry in the form of appetizers from the kitchen. Tea master Roberto Campanelli has selected the right drink from a selection of 30 types of tea, and when it comes to alcohol, bar manager Aleksandar Vujin is the right person to talk to. Together they developed the Afternoon Tea concept, with amazing results.
Sometimes there are savory appetizers…
(Photo: Catherine Hess)
… sometimes sweet creations by Ian Baker, the pastry chef at the Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten.
(Photo: Catherine Hess)
The Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten now has six seasons: Easter, strawberry season, summer, Oktoberfest, autumn and Christmas. For each of these “seasons” there is an extra offer, in addition to scones, sandwiches and shortbread. Fantastic Christmas tree balls made of sour cherries and nougat or a gingerbread mousse tart, for example. Or pickled trout with hops and asparagus salad or a meat loaf praline with malt crackers and herb curd at Oktoberfest. Incidentally, the latter does not go best with hop tea, as one might assume in Munich, but rather with either white tea or smoked china tea, according to Roberto Campanelli.
By the way, spontaneously snowing into the Nymphenburg room with its six tables is not possible, you have to reserve for the afternoon tea. Because the small appetizers are made quite laboriously – and nothing should be thrown away. Afternoon tea is currently available from Thursday to Sunday from 3 p.m. to 6 p.m. An Étagère costs 90 euros and is enough for two people.