In Meudon, Guillaume Sanchez treats his feet in the water

An enchanting place 45 minutes from the center of Paris, nestled in the heart of the Parc de Meudon. This is the promise of Hangar Y, a legacy of the 1878 Universal Exhibition, originally used to store hot air balloons, refurbished in recent years to become one of the new cultural destinations of Greater Paris. And for sustenance, in the extension, a restaurant which gives the impression of floating between the trees and equipped with a superb terrace at the edge of the water: the Perch Yumpteenth declension of Perch Menilmontant well known in eastern Paris, with at its head, or rather behind the stoves, the genius of Guillaume Sanchezfamous tattooed chef of the starred restaurant Neso.

Chef Guillaume Sanchez in the interior room of Perchoir Y – JEROME GALLAND

The same chef who also serves, on the other side of the Bassin de Lenôtre, more affordable fish and chips and burgers in a friendly the tavern festival which will reopen in about ten days, in mid-June, after a promising trial last summer.

How did the chef imagine the place?

“When I arrived, this hyper green side and the feet in the water, it immediately excited me, tells Guillaume Sanchez to 20 minutes. I wanted to create an accessible restaurant, but with very good products, the same as for my gastronomic restaurant. All fish are small boat fish. All the vegetables are French, seasonal and from our own culture. On sauces, products, maturation or sourcing, there is the same work as at Neso. It’s a slightly less sharp and less advanced version, but our little tricks and our winning trials are there. »

What to choose from the menu?

To start, the delicious mackerel rillettes “slowly cooked in the broth” (10 euros) or the potato waffle with wild garlic and trout eggs (12 euros). It’s both very beautiful, very good and it can be shared. In short, here are two very good introductions not too expensive!

Wild garlic waffle
Wild garlic waffle – S.LEBLANC

If the American-style Breton lobster and fries (49 euros) is praised by chef Guillaume Sanchez himself, we preferred the vol-au-vent of shellfish and sweetbreads (35 euros), but others dishes (veggie, meat or fish) are less expensive, from 22 to 32 euros. And for dessert? The rosemary-smoked crème dulce caramel (8 euros) gently lands the taste buds.

The dish that we could redo at home?

It’s not easy to compete with a starred chef, but coating your radishes with butter for an aperitif (5 euros), yes, you can do it again at home. And the result is really pretty.

Radishes with butter from Guillaume Sanchez
Radishes with butter from Guillaume Sanchez – S.LEBLANC

The chief’s argument for coming?

“My point is always to say that if you’re sick of being in front of buildings, come here,” continues the chef. Me, typically, I live in the 9th, it’s 45 minutes from my house by car, so not that far. And places like that 45 minutes from Paris, there aren’t a thousand either. It’s mostly good food places, so that’s doubly cool. »

How to get there ?

The address is 9 avenue de Trivaux, in Meudon (Hauts-de-Seine). If you come by car, it is better to park in town because the parking lot nearby is quite expensive. We can prefer the bike, but be careful, it climbs. Alternatively, RER C stop Meudon-Val-Fleury then bus 289 stop Cimetière de Trivaux.

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