With its fine skin and flesh that is both firm and marbled, the Bresse capon is the favorite Christmas poultry of Hugo Desnoyer who also recommends the Landes capon, which is just as succulent and much less expensive. But having a beautiful animal prepared and restrained by its butcher is not enough without the mastery of cooking that will sublimate it.
The one offered by the favorite butcher of starred tables is not the fastest but it has the merit of simplicity: it cannot be missed and remains valid for any poultry, whether huge or smaller, with or without fine stuffing inside, whether it is served at Christmas or at Trinité, on Sunday noon or a simple weeknight. Here are Hugo Desnoyer’s recommendations, to be found in his latest book The meat recipes of a butcher supporter (First Editions).
A fire in two stages
Cooking poultry is essential. It takes place in two stages for Hugo Desnoyer. The first lasts half an hour at 220°C “the time to brown the skin well, a quarter of an hour on one side, a quarter of an hour on the other”. Take care not to put the animal in the oven until the oven is hot.
The second stage lasts… 2h30, 2h45, 3 hours… “In fact, as much as you want, emphasizes the artisan butcher, it won’t damage the poultry and it won’t change the cooking”. The only imperative: remember to baste with a ladle or regularly turn the poultry in its cooking juices. “Let’s say every half hour,” advises Hugo Desnoyer.
Candied vegetables in juice
According to your preferences, you will choose the vegetables that will preserve in the juice released by the poultry. “Cut a few carrots, onions, spring onions, a little garlic, mushrooms, a very ripe tomato, have a little thyme and that’s enough”, recommends Hugo Desnoyer. In his book, he talks about massaging poultry with butter on all sides. In our video, he simply lays out “a lot of butter” diced before drizzling his poultry with olive oil, salting it well and peppering it in moderation.
At the end of its long cooking, the poultry is finally ready to come out of the oven. “Touch and see how tender the whites are,” raves the artisan butcher who doesn’t worry about the thighs. “They will have had plenty of time to cook. All that remains is to carve the poultry. Hugo Desnoyer wishes “good luck to whoever is going to take care of it” and whom all the guests at the table will not fail to congratulate.