Couturier Mugler: The Cliché Buster | tagesschau.de

Status: 01/24/2022 11:08 a.m

Thierry Mugler empowered women with his creations – and great spectacles from his fashion shows. He has been a big name in haute couture since the 1970s. He planned new projects until the end.

By Stefanie Markert, ARD Studio Paris

From Diana Ross to Lady Gaga to Kim Kardashian, he’s dressed them all. Thierry Mugler made women strong with his models: the silhouette is structured, the shoulders are emphasized, the décolleté is deep, the waist is narrow. He has dressed her in metal like a cowgirl or wrapped her in car tires – his creations have always been extravagant, explosive, eccentric.

Thierry Mugler was also a pioneer. Since the 1970s he has turned classic fashion shows into great spectacles. On the French news channel BFM TV, the presenter enthusiastically commented on a show by the artist on the 20th anniversary of his brand in the 1990s: “He has the sense for show. He’s a fashion director, you could say. That was a super production. There all the top models were there – Claudia Schiffer, Linda Evangelista, Kate Moss.”

“Whoever goes out with me is happy”

Manfred Thierry Mugler was born in Strasbourg in 1948, the son of a doctor, into a family originally from Austria. The climate at that time was little liberal and narrow. He began training as a ballet dancer at the age of 14 and studied costume design. He came to the capital at the age of 20, founded his company “Café de Paris” in 1973 – and a year later his brand, named after himself.

His fashion went around the world. And caused a stir even in the French National Assembly. Culture Secretary Jack Lang was booed there in 1985 for wearing a Mugler model with a Mao collar in the Conservative House.

Thierry Mugler, a revolutionary? He was aware of his role. “I shattered ideas, clichés and obstacles. You can’t stop things, the war against clichés,” he said himself. “But the idea is also to bring joy. And that seems to work. Whoever goes out with me , is rather cheerful.”

Mugler created perfumes and revue shows

The creative head withdrew from the fashion industry 20 years ago. He doesn’t really miss her. The man with the distinctive mustache also created perfumes. These include “Angel”, which has been competing for first place with the classic Chanel N. 5 since 1992 and is one of the top 3 in sales in France.

He also worked as a guest judge on “Germany’s Next Top Model” and founded a cabaret called Mugler Follies in Paris in 2013. He created shows for the “Cirque du Soleil” and the Friedrichstadtpalast Berlin. “The Wyld – Not From This World” was the most expensive show outside of Las Vegas in 2014 at the premiere date with a budget of 10 million euros. The show, in which Nefertiti comes to life and meets extraterrestrials in Berlin’s nightlife, was a cosmic love story in a futuristic style and thus carried Mugler’s signature.

More than a dress for an evening

The exhibition “Thierry Mugler: Couturissime” is running until April 24, 2022 at the Paris Museum of Decorative Arts. At the opening, the curator of the show explained that Mugler had broken away from haute couture for the elite. He wanted to show that young fashion designers can also do haute couture – and that it’s more than just a dress for a chic evening.

At the opening of the show dedicated to his life’s work last fall, he posed with US rapper Cardi B. She wore a spectacular red sequined dress of his brand, covered in feathers.

American rapper Cardi B. in a creation by Thierry Mugler.

Image: picture alliance / abaca

The first expressions of condolence came from the USA that night. “You changed the way we think about fashion. I always carry your legacy with me,” said his creative director Casey Cadwallader. Singer Diana Ross tweeted a photo with him and the sentence: “I will miss you.” “Rest in Peace,” wrote pop star Beyoncé on her page.

His spokesman said: Mugler’s death at the age of 73 was unexpected on Sunday afternoon. He still had projects and wanted to announce new collaborations earlier this week.

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