In years past, when a new Italian restaurant opened, you could be sure it would all follow the latest designer fashions. Everything chic, shiny and cool. Stylish to the max. Ciao fishing nets, Chianti bottles and old family photos from the flea market. A number of Ristoranti of this new generation have emerged in Pasing, see Pasinger Marienplatz.
And then, for a few years now, the Antica Osteria has existed as a counterpoint to the highly polished newcomers, an old inn in the literal sense. The Nimmerfallstraße on which it is located is named after Hans Nimmerfall, a militant social democrat and city councilor of the city of Pasing, who campaigned vehemently for a workers’ building cooperative at the beginning of the 20th century.
After tough fighting north of the railway line, they created well-equipped cooperative housing for people with lower incomes, along with a grocery store and the Lindenplatzl restaurant, which retained its name into the 21st century.
The block of flats has hardly changed on the outside, and inside the Antica Osteria is actually still the old Lindenplatzl. At the entrance there are a few tables on the window front, on the left is a side room, in front of it the pizza maker is working in front of a large pizza oven. A few steps lead down to the “Hall” with murals from the period and a stage. Before the pandemic, it was used for live music. The whole facility looks a bit outdated.
The fact that this large room was occupied almost to the last seat by audibly cheerful guests during the week shows that this inn has remained what it was intended for: a meeting place for people from the neighborhood and for those who love it, very much good and reasonably priced food and drink in a friendly atmosphere without frills. The tables are neatly set with checkered tablecloths and cloth napkins. The waiters are quick, friendly and cheerful.
The atmosphere is right: checkered tablecloths and quick, friendly waiters.
(Photo: Robert Haas)
The menu contains many classics of Italian cuisine. The vitello tonnato, very good veal, not too heavily covered by the tuna sauce, was easily enough for two people as a starter (11.50 euros). The antipasti misti — excellent raw ham, salami, olives, warm, savory polpette (meatballs), wintry bland tomato with mozzarella, and pickled artichokes — were rock-solid but unexciting (12.00).
The Saltimbocca Romana is just as solid, three slices of tender meat, raw ham and sage, as it should be, plus an extra plate with barely seasoned vegetables (16.50). The offer on a board, Tagliata di Manzo, was worth every penny of the 21.90 euros. The generous portion of beef, grilled to perfection, accompanied by arugula salad in an edible parmesan bowl was a treat.
The pizzaiolo is busy: the choice is large, the prices are moderate.
(Photo: Robert Haas)
From the land to the sea: the spaghetti frutti di mare, a large portion with a lot, topped with a thick gambero, already sliced to make it easier to get to the delicious contents, tasted like it was on the beach in Tropea (13.00). Three of these crunchy, large gamberi also decorated the Frittura di calamari e gamberi with salad, served on a board with indentations like a canteen plate, only made of wood (19.00). The disadvantage of the wood was that the calamari got a little damp from below. The oil tasted pretty strong, but it turned out to be easily digestible. The marinated calamari alla griglia was particularly successful, served on thin slices of orange and mixed with pieces of vegetables (18.50). Great praise.
The restaurant review “Kostprobe” in the Süddeutsche Zeitung has a long tradition: it has been published weekly in the local section since 1975, and online for a few years now and with a rating scale. About a dozen editors with culinary expertise from all departments – from Munich, science to politics – take turns writing about the city’s gastronomy. The selection is endless, the Bavarian economy is just as important as the Greek fish restaurant, the American fast food chain, the special bratwurst stand or the gourmet restaurant decorated with stars. The special thing about the SZ taster: The authors write under pseudonyms, often with a culinary touch. They go into the restaurant to be tested unnoticed about two or three times, depending on how long the budget given by the editors lasts. Iron basic rules: a grace period of one hundred days for the kitchen of a new restaurant to familiarize itself. And: Never get caught working as a restaurant critic – to be able to describe food and drink, service and atmosphere impartially. SZ
Antica Osteria’s pizzaiolo is busy at lunchtime and in the evening. The flatbreads are very popular both in restaurants and in street sales. The selection is large, the prices range from seven to 13 euros. The base of the pizza pescatore with tomatoes, mozzarella and seafood was so crispy that even the thick edge was nibbled away. For the topping, however, the fisherman probably only had calamari in his net that day, but it was nevertheless cleaned up with pleasure (13.00). The tartuffo nero for dessert came to the table frozen a little hard; if greed had allowed him to wait a little longer, he would have been even better (5.90). The panna cotta, here with a chocolate icing, was one of the better of its kind (6.00).
Large portion with lots of content: the Spaghetti Frutti di Mare.
(Photo: Robert Haas)
The prices of the drinks are comparatively cheap by today’s standards in Italian restaurants. The real Halbe Spaten Hell costs 3.90 euros, the proper Montepulciano or Trebbiano pint costs 4.60 euros, the rosé frizzante on tap costs 4.90 euros.
The Antica Osteria is certainly not a gourmet address, but a down-to-earth osteria, an inn where the landlords Stefano de Bartolo and Andrea Locco, both from Calabria, take care of the well-being of their guests.
Antica OsteriaNimmerfallstraße 48, 81245 Munich, telephone: 089/82087140, opening hours: Monday and Wednesday to Friday 11.30 a.m. to 2.30 p.m. and 5.30 p.m. to 11 p.m., Saturday 5.30 p.m. to 11 p.m., Sunday 11.30 a.m. to 10 p.m.