Advent markets in Hamburg: fisherman’s shirt and après-ski trip

Cosiness with a vision of the future

Boredom is not an option at the historic Christmas market in front of the town hall: In addition to Christmas tree decorations, fragrant lard biscuits and Nordic specialties, there is also “Fischerhemden-Uwe”, who likes to explain the difference between Hamburgers and Finkenwerderschem fishermen’s shirts: “You say who has thin stripes wears, has made it “- has become rich. Mulled wine is available at the “pier”, and if you are hungry, you can choose between Thuringian bratwurst and Nordic skewer. If some southern German heart feels a little homesick in gray Hamburg, there is the “Almgourmet” or the confectionery stand with original Nuremberg Elisen Lebkuchen. You can even hear familiar sounds – they come from the market police, represented by a white-haired Austrian in an old uniform of the Austrian Federal Police. The Lord makes sure that everyone is wearing their masks and is responsible for “lightening the mood a little”. Anyone who leaves the Christmas market in the direction of the Inner Alster in order to have a nightcap at the “White Magic” on Jungfernstieg stumbles across a hut with the label “Fortune telling”: Palmistry 15 euros. Well, hopefully the lady will tell you whether you bought the right stripes from Fischerhemden-Uwe. (2-G and 3-G areas, hamburger-weihnachtsmarkt.com)

The floating Alster fir on the Inner Alster. Behind it, on the Jungfernstieg, the “White Magic” Christmas market takes place.

(Photo: Christian Ohde / imago images)

Pagodas on the Jungfernstieg

A few meters from the town hall square, the “White Magic” stretches across the Jungfernstieg. It is the contrast to the historic Christmas market: white pagoda tents, the tips of which glow in the dark, light blue fairy lights in the trees. The view extends over the Inner Alster, in the middle of which a magnificent Christmas tree floats. If you enter the promenade of the “White Magic” through the brightly shining entrance gate, you will be welcomed by a friendly loudspeaker voice and made aware of the Corona rules – in German and English. You can’t predict the future here, but Hamburg’s pride and joy are small and compact to take with you: the “Elphi” in a 3-D folding Christmas card. At the other end of the 3-G area, US Christmas music echoes from the speakers, “Driving home for Christmas” mixes with the Corona announcements. Again and again a whistle breaks through the Christmas hustle and bustle on Jungfernstieg – you could almost think that an old steam locomotive is chugging through downtown Hamburg. But it is a boat that attracts attention and wants to inspire guests to take a tour of the Alster. If it goes far enough, you should even be able to catch a glimpse of Udo Lindenberg’s old home – the Hotel Atlantic. (2-G and 3-G areas, weisserzauber-jungfernstieg.de)

Press photo Hamburg Hafenzauber 2021

The maritime Christmas market Hafenzauber is located directly on the landing stages and offers a view of the Elbphilharmonie.

(Photo: Matthias Plander / Hamburger Hafenzauber)

North and south united on the Elbe

Small but nice and a real insider tip: the harbor magic at the Landungsbrücken in Sankt Pauli. Less known than its neighbor “Santa Pauli”, which offers a strip tent, porn karaoke and chocolate pillows, but all the more cozy. With a view of the impressive Hamburg harbor, the Christmas market lives up to its name. At the same time, the bright wooden huts give the harbor magic a touch of ski vacation, and when on Saturday evening the DJ shows off his skills and the visitors admit it during “Hafengaudi” Wham! dancing under the patio heaters, you have finally reached après-ski mentally. There are no candles, jewelry and Co. here – this Christmas market belongs more in the culinary corner. In addition to the classics such as crêpes and lard biscuits, Hafenzauber also offers less Christmassy delicacies such as fish rolls. Another special feature: the interior rooms can be booked for private events. Just like an ice stock rink, where you can challenge your guests to a round of ice stock sport with a panorama of the harbor. (2 G only, hafenzauber-hamburg.de)

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