Bali has introduced a much-discussed “tourism tax”. The money from vacationers should also help solve the massive garbage problem. Is that possible? Impressions from the Island of the Gods.
The authorities in Bali have chosen a good time to start their tourist tax, which has been discussed for months. February is still part of the rainy season, it is low season.
Heavy tropical showers rain down from the sky almost every day. Even though the sun usually shines again afterwards, the Indonesian holiday island with its famous temples and rice terraces is still far less crowded than in the high season in July or August.
This also applies to I Gusti Ngurah Rai Airport. From now on everyone will have to pay 150,000 rupees upon entry – the equivalent of around 9 euros. There is much less crowding at the visa counters than in the dry season – an ideal moment to test whether the new tax will lengthen waiting times and spoil the mood for some people even before the start of their vacation. The romantic Valentine’s Day as the starting date – coincidence or calculation? Those responsible left that open.
Waste and traffic problems
The government says it wants to invest the money in protecting the magnificent nature and culture of the “Island of the Gods” as well as in sustainable tourism and services. Bali is the only Hindu island in Muslim Indonesia and is famous for its unique traditions and rituals. However, around 70 percent of the money should – at least initially – go towards tackling the waste problem. Because that is huge.
The current influenced by the monsoon is currently driving mountains of rubbish onto the shore at the famous surfing beach in Kuta. Every day, helpers collect tons of bottles, cups and packaging that are transported away by truck. But the next morning the rubbish piles up again. Sunbathing in plastic waste – some tourists look quite dismayed at the disgusting scenario. Dream vacation looks different. And Kuta is not an isolated case. “Even lesser-known attractions such as waterfalls in the jungle are often completely littered with rubbish,” says taxi driver Ketut Oka.
In addition, there are constantly congested roads. Bali has hardly any public transport – but there are tons of cars and scooters. Not only the locals, but also countless tourists rush through world-famous places like Canggu, Sanur or Seminyak on rattling two-wheelers. When it rains, there is often a complete standstill.
A Canadian woman who lives on the island reports with annoyance about hour-long traffic jams on the route from Uluwatu in the south to Ubud in the center, a hotspot for the yoga community. Endless queues of cars, honking and exhaust fumes – the contrast to the Zen atmosphere in the idyllic rice fields and wellness centers could hardly be stronger. The government has long been planning a rail system that would at least connect the airport with Kuta and other southern holiday resorts.
Does the money help?
Although Balinese and international media have been reporting on the “tourism tax” for months, many on the island have not yet noticed anything about it. When asked, most people shrug their shoulders, and even travel industry employees react with surprise. “I didn’t know that at all,” says Laksmi, who works at the reception of a hotel in Ubud. But she doubts that the additional money will change much about the situation.
“There are simply too many people in Bali, and the Balinese themselves mostly just throw their garbage into the landscape – it’s almost part of the culture,” she says. “Bali is not Singapore, and it will never be that clean here.” In addition, almost every family has “at least two cars and three motorcycles”. The traffic problem can hardly be brought under control even with money.
The tourist tax is also news for Kaela from Australia, who is taking part in a yoga training session in Ubud. “But 150,000 rupees is really a small sum if we can use it to help solve the problems that we, tourists, are largely responsible for,” she says. “I’m happy to be there.”
The fees
The fee may seem small for solo travelers, but it is expensive for families: the amount has to be paid in addition to the 500,000 rupees (30 euros) for a 30-day visa. The tourist tax applies to everyone without exception, including children. Anyone who takes a detour to neighboring islands such as the Gili Islands, Lombok or Java will have to pay again on the return journey to Bali. However, this does not apply to short trips to Nusa Penida, Nusa Lembongan or Nusa Ceningan, as these three islands belong to the province of Bali.
For comparison: In other Southeast Asian holiday destinations such as Thailand, Malaysia or Vietnam, entry is free for German citizens. The fact that Indonesia also wants to significantly increase the entertainment tax – which will likely increase prices in bars, nightclubs and spas in Bali as well – is causing many in the industry an additional headache.
On average, around 18,000 holidaymakers arrive in Bali every day. Thanks to the tourist tax, the authorities receive an additional income of around 60 million euros annually. Provincial Governor Sang Made Mahendra Jaya has so far left it unclear in detail which projects these should flow into. “It is important for foreign tourists to know that their money is being used for cultural preservation and waste disposal,” he explained.
In order to keep waiting times at the airport as short as possible, holidaymakers are advised to pay the tax in advance via the Love Bali website (https://lovebali.baliprov.go.id/) or the Love Bali app. If you prefer to pay upon entry, you can do so by credit card. “I can only hope that the tourism tax will help Bali,” says Brazilian Marcel, who has lived on the island for four years. But there is skepticism in his voice.