A floating maxi-terrace against a backdrop of tangy electro moored opposite the Gare de Lyon district… Les Maquereaux Rive-Gauche uses a proven recipe, that of a short menu and good, well-sourced products. Oysters and mackerel, the fish that gives its name to the company specializing in the creation of nice spots, try to make people believe that Paris is by the sea. But also excellent meaty mussels that make you want to come back .
How was the place imagined?
It is the fourth address of the Mackerels, a company co-founded by Olivier Blanchard-Dignac and Adrien Bisiaux, two young guys who intend to dust off the guinguette spirit without giving up the water’s edge. Farewell to the old barges dressed in dubious carpets with their encrusted smells of cold tobacco. This is in fact an old cargo boat on three levels, refurbished to house, among other things, a brazier and a small swimming pool (really small) for those who insist on splashing around.
In the hold, there is access via a staircase to a beautiful dance floor surrounded by a bar and soft sofas. “Last year, we were in the run-in, our real first season is this year,” explains Olivier Blanchard-Dignac, showing us around. You can eat on the bridge, with a view that embraces the district of the Gare de Lyon. The terrace is sheltered from the sun, but allows you to enjoy a little fresh wind. “It’s the advantage of being up high,” whispers our waitress. You can also sit at one of the small tables set up in the passageway. You feel less sea air but it’s nice too.
The dish not to be missed?
As for the cuisine, the menu is short but there is always plenty to choose from. Small plates to share, more traditional dishes, grilled meats to order and a fresh selection prepared by the scaler. Everything is homemade. Plates of oysters (14 or 26 euros), mussels and chips (16 euros), fish n’chips (16 euros), crispy chicken (12 euros), homemade acras (13 euros)… The menu is short, but with good well-sourced products. “People know us because we have very good oysters. ” Of the Breton oysters from Plougrescantbetween Perros-Guirec and the island of Bréhat, always the same.
“Then, I advise you, the mussels and fries, continues Olivier Blanchard-Dignac. We work a lot with the Morisseau mussel, which is opposite Mont-Saint-Michel. It too is renowned, in addition to being succulent. The fries aren’t bad either. To accompany them, ask for the small mayonnaise with smoked oil, normally reserved for crispy chicken, addiction guaranteed.
The dish that you can redo at home?
Mackerel rillettes. It is the company’s signature dish. Olivier Blanchard-Dignac gave us the list of ingredients: mackerel fillets, Greek yogurt, Philadelphia, spring onion, dill, chervil, lime, fleur de sel and pepper.
And after ? The mackerel is cooked in a broth very slowly, quite simply. Once the bones have been removed, all that remains is to mash it and mix all the ingredients with a fork.
The argument of the boss to come?
At Maquereaux Rive Gauche, like at its big brother on the Rive Droite (Quai de l’Hôtel de Ville), “we come here to break away from the rhythm of the city, which is not very stressful, to relax and have a good time, almost like on vacation”, underlines Olivier Blanchard-Dignac. At the height of the Quai d’Austerlitz, the Seine is much wider, but above all much bluer than in the center of Paris.
And the swimming pool? Even if it is very small, it is another argument. “It is accessible, but only by reservation from eight to ten people, on four-hour slots, on Saturday or Sunday mornings or Sunday afternoons”, warns the master of the place.
How to get there
Les Maquereaux Rive Gauche are a stone’s throw from the Jardin des Plantes at the foot of the Cité de la Mode et du Design, at 66, quai d’Austerlitz 75013 Paris. Metro: line 1 Gare de Lyon or line 5 Gare d’Austerlitz.
No reservations to eat there. Which for mussels can be harmful. “When there is no more, there is no more and it happens often,” laughs Olivier Blanchard-Dignac. Here comes who wants, when he wants, well only on weekends, Saturday from 12 p.m. to 12:30 a.m. and Sunday from 12 p.m. to 7:30 p.m.