The fanfare that the American chain Starbucks knows how to host coffee has always been remarkable. Which is both a blessing and a curse, because a problematic truth for Starbucks is that some consider this hoopla to be more remarkable than the coffee served in the stores. The latest excitement concerns the Italian business, whose numbers have never been top notch, which is also due to the fact that foreign coffee chains have traditionally been as popular with Italians as the idea of going to McDonald’s for pasta.
In order to lure Italians to the barista, Starbucks has been trying to profitably mix a national magic potion – coffee – with another – olive oil. First, three drinks are offered as “oleato”, i.e. with a spoonful of oil “infusion”: latte macchiato with oat milk, iced espresso shake and cold brew. Other countries are to follow. Starbucks CEO Howard Schultz told CNN that he was inspired by his business partner, Sicilian olive oil producer Tommaso Asaro, who consumes a tablespoon of his healthy oil neat every day. While visiting Sicily, Schultz came up with the idea of stirring the oil into his morning coffee, making it “velvety and buttery.”
Many articles that have been read on the internet since then about the many alleged miracle effects of virgin olive oil are correspondingly oily, including references to paleo and keto diets. For example, it slows down the absorption of caffeine in the body, so you can enjoy the “energetic effect” of coffee for longer. And thanks to its high antioxidant content, it is a kind of all-purpose weapon against inflammation, heart disease or cancer.
In fact, the potentially health-promoting effect of antioxidants such as polyphenols has been undisputed for years, for example in cell regeneration. However, the exact effectiveness of oils containing polyphenols is unclear, and there are no recognized methods of analysis, which is why a corresponding EU regulation only allows the vague message: “Olive oil polyphenols help to protect blood lipids from oxidative stress.” Oh well. Only producers who indicate a certain polyphenol content on the label are allowed to advertise with it. However, it’s about oils that are hard to find even in high-end stores, not to mention supermarkets.
Anyone who asks olive oil experts about the daily oil shot in coffee will get a frown. And counter questions: If polyphenols, which suffer or even break down when it is hot, are so important, why do you put the oil in the hot coffee? And why does Starbucks boss Schultz rave so much about Sicily, when Sicilian olive varieties are known for their comparatively low antioxidant content? Why is it that “extra virgin” is constantly being whispered about when it comes to oil shots, when it has been clear for a long time that this rating is worth nothing in view of the general oil mess? The list goes on.
So the taste remains. A series of home tests of excellent products suggests that olive oil doesn’t really make coffee any better, especially since you don’t necessarily want to neutralize the delicate acidity of good Arabica unless you’re into grassy notes. Only frothed oat milk with a tablespoon of olive oil becomes comfortingly full and sweet in a pleasant way. Actually not bad! However, it was known beforehand that the flavor carrier fat makes a lot of things round. Is that why the Viennese cafés are now pouring Styrian pumpkin seed oil into the melange? Even. Another truth is that every already lush latte macchiato now has an additional 120 calories. Starbucks will probably be able to omit the muffin with coffee in the future. After all, that would be really healthy.