There are people whose reputation precedes them. Leon Hänseler and Hannah Gratzfeld are such people: in 2019 they started a test run with the pop-up café Faber in the Bar Garçon in downtown Munich, now they moved into premises at Zeppelinstraße 5 with their café Faber a few weeks ago – and practically from the first day the guests were queuing.
This is not because Hänseler and Gratzfeld would flood their social media channels with elaborate reels. That wouldn’t be the way of the quiet couple, who sometimes don’t seem to like the hustle and bustle despite all the joy about the many satisfied and happy faces. But visitors to the pop-up apparently didn’t want to forego the taste of their hollandaise sauce on the waxy, poached eggs, or the creamiest cheesecake in town. Some guests even let themselves be put on a waiting list at the weekend in order to be able to enjoy Hänseler and Gratzfeld’s creations.
The operators have furnished the large room simply but stylishly: a wood-panelled counter, behind which you can catch a glimpse of the kitchen, light brown wooden chairs on petrol-green tables, many plants and, as an eye-catcher, a coral-red painted wall with two large windows resplendent just one word: “Faber”. The interior fits in well with the overall concept of the store: no frills, but lots of taste.
There are no frills in the café: the Egg Benedict is simply called “poached eggs”.
(Photo: Lorenz Mehrlich)
Leon Hänseler prepares the coffee and serves the guests.
(Photo: Lorenz Mehrlich)
What is there?
As in the pop-up, the map is manageable and changes depending on the season. In addition to a weekly changing lunch special, which is only available from Wednesday to Friday, it is particularly worth taking a look at the breakfast menu: in addition to porridge with preserved plums and Piedmontese hazelnuts (9 euros, vegan), there is the already mentioned poached eggs (12, 50 euros), which are called the same here and not Egg Benedict. As simple as the name is, so good what you get: Homemade sourdough bread meets chilli mushrooms meets poached eggs meets Hollandaise sauce.
Alternatively, you can order a no less tasty bread, which in the Café Faber operates under the name “Hummus” (11.50 euros) and in which the sourdough bread is topped with colorful radicchio, beetroot, a boiled egg and Postelein salad and, of course, the chickpea cream that gives it its name, or a “cheese toast”: a cheese sandwich with slightly sour pickled radishes and herb mayonnaise (9 euros).
In addition to the cheesecake (4.50 euros), which is actually always available, you will always find a changing selection of sweets in the display case, such as brownies or babka (4 euros each), a twisted yeast plait. The traditional Eastern European pastry has been enjoying increasing popularity in Germany for some time. At Café Faber, it’s infused with chocolate and beautifully juicy.
The two operators have furnished the café simply, only a few large plants and a red-painted wall serve as eye-catchers.
(Photo: Lorenz Mehrlich)
As head chef, Hannah Gratzfeld is responsible for the beautifully arranged plates.
(Photo: Lorenz Mehrlich)
Like the Café Sweet Spot on the Viktualienmarkt, where Hänseler worked before becoming self-employed, Café Faber belongs to the so-called third-wave movement. For members of this movement, it’s not just about coffee waking you up: it should taste good and unfold its complex aromas. Hänseler changes the beans in his grinder regularly so that guests can taste the whole range of different flavors – from fruity to nutty to chocolatey. You can get filter coffee in Café Faber for 3.50 euros, a flat white for 4.20 euros.
For those who don’t like coffee, there is a Smoky Chai on the menu (4 euros), for which Hänseler and Gratzfeld put together the spice mixture themselves.
Who do you meet there?
Apparently, at least, Munich’s entire foodie scene makes a pilgrimage to Café Faber at the weekend. But although the number of hip people is quite large, the new Hänseler and Gratzfeld store is a place of well-being for everyone. This is probably also due to the courteous but unobtrusive service of the operators, including refilled tap water again and again.
Cafe Faber, Zeppelinstraße 5, 81541 Munich, opening hours: Wednesday to Sunday 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., kitchen open from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. No reservations possible.