On TV, in magazines, on social networks… We talk about it everywhere, and yet, it’s nothing new. No, it’s not bed bugs, although the popularity of this ingredient from the polysaccharide family has increased as quickly as these insects multiply. It is rather hyaluronic acid whose success (a little out of nowhere) is no longer unknown to us. Sometimes plumping, sometimes hyper hydrating, this active ingredient sold in all sauces, no longer leaves the compositions of our cosmetics. Right or wrong ? 20 minutes asked Prudvi Kaka, biochemist and scientific director of The Ordinary brand to tell us more about the justified (or not) success of the famous AH.
Hyaluronic acid owes its success to its “versatility”
Hyaluronic acid has very good press, for several reasons that cannot be denied. First, it is an agent already present in the skin. This argument also contributes greatly in favor of his capital sympathy.
Indeed, consumers have the feeling of having access to a “natural” active ingredient, since hyaluronic acid is “produced naturally by our body”, as Prudvi Kaka explains. It also ticks the “anti-aging” box, by “retaining a large amount of water on the surface of the skin”, giving it that plumper, plumper look. And obviously, it ticks the “hydration” box. Because as the biochemist reminds us, hyaluronic acid (HA) is above all an active ingredient “recognized for its moisturizing properties”.
The favored ingredient of beauty brands
If the general public is won over, cosmetics brands are too, because they find it of more scientific interest. Indeed, hyaluronic acid is a humectant which has the advantage of being able to be easily incorporated into different types of products. Both in facial essentials (serums, creams, cleansers), and in hair routine products (masks, shampoos, balms, etc.).
With more than one trick up its sleeve, this star ingredient can be used daily: up to twice a day, without creating irritation. The scientific director of The Ordinary even affirms that there are no contraindications to combining it with other ingredients. A boon for brands, which can target several skin concerns with a single product. This is for example the case of The Ordinary, which suggests combining their hyaluronic acid serum 2% + Vitamin B5 with their niacinamide serum 10% + zinc 1%, in order to target both radiance and resolve problems. dehydration.
There are ‘better ingredients for hydration’ than hyaluronic acid
Although hyaluronic acid is a good moisturizing agent, it is not the only one and even less the most effective. This is what Prudvi Kaka says: “The best ingredients for hydration are those having a positive impact on the components of the skin responsible for its hydration”. Among them, we can find the hygroscopic agents present in corneocytes (known as natural hydration factors), explains the biochemist. But also the intercellular lipids which form a barrier intended to minimize water loss through the skin.
Conclusion ? Hyaluronic acid is a bit like the popular school band or the class favorite that is always (too much?) highlighted. And yet with slightly more underrated active ingredients such as polyglutamic acid, peptides, or even ceramides, you could absolutely boost the hydration of your skin and achieve the same results.