Graefelfing: Restaurant test “Joe Marino” – Good recipe – Munich


In behavioral research, bite inhibition is understood – to put it simply – an innate protective mechanism in which the superior animal does not massively harm the inferior. The layman thinks of an innocent puppy who shows the big, dangerous-looking dog its belly and then becomes gentle as a lamb. Developing a certain bite resistance towards restaurateurs in times of Corona could not be completely ruled out for tasting.

Which is not to say that hosts are as vulnerable as puppies. But in the time when restaurants were still allowed to open and the food probers were still testing, the innkeepers were not doing well.

Joe Marino in the community center in Graefelfing was actually a candidate to take a bite. “Joe leaves nothing to be desired,” says the homepage. Such tones call for a particularly close look. But then the pleasant surprise: there was really hardly anything to bite into.

Joe Marino Restaurant

Quality: ● ● ● ● ○

Service: ● ● ● ● ○

Ambience: ● ● ● ● ○

Price / performance: ● ● ● ● ○

Bahnhofplatz 1, Graefelfing

Phone: 089 – 8 57 30 42

www.joemarino.de

opening hours

Daily 9 a.m. to midnight,

Warm meals from 11.30 a.m. to 11 p.m.

With a lot of money and skill, the innkeeper had made the restaurant as corona-safe as possible inside and outside, in addition to the usual distance and hygiene measures, also with an effective ventilation system, full-bodied announced as “Corona destroyer”. The decor is appealing, Mediterranean colors, beautiful ceramics, shells, old oars, but not overloaded.

But now to the dishes: A lunch menu for twelve euros, consisting of good potato cream soup with bread cubes, crumbly venison goulash with red cabbage and a small jar with panna cotta with finely sour fruits is not so easy to find in this quality in a wide radius. The mild Parmesan soup with lots of fresh black truffle slices (6.50 euros) and the spaghetti Bolognese with lots of minced meat and an intense tomato flavor (8.90) were very satisfactory.

During a visit in the evening, the Ristorante was fully booked in two shifts. Sufficient staff ensured brisk, friendly service. On the Internet, the service is sometimes made bad, which can by no means be confirmed.

The SZ tasting

The Süddeutsche Zeitung’s restaurant review “Tasting” has a long tradition: it has been published weekly in the local section since 1975, and for several years also online and with a rating scale. Around a dozen editors with culinary experience from all departments – from Munich, Knowledge to Politics – take turns writing about the city’s gastronomy. The choice is endless, the Bavarian economy is just as important as the Greek fish restaurant, the American fast food chain, the special bratwurst stand or the gourmet restaurant decorated with stars. The special thing about the SZ tasting: The authors write under pseudonyms, often with a culinary touch. You go undetected to the restaurant to be tested about two or three times, depending on how long the budget set by the editorial team lasts. Iron basic rules: a hundred days grace period until the kitchen of a new restaurant has settled in. And: Never get caught working as a restaurant critic – so that you can describe food and drink, service and atmosphere in an unbiased manner. SZ

The large portion of rich, fresh antipasti was almost too much for one person (9.50), Vitello tonnato good average (11.50). If you ordered Fritto misto as your main course, you didn’t go wrong (18.90, on the new menu 18.50). The rather large portion contained calamari, cod, salmon and a thick shrimp, on the edge of the plate was painted with finely hot chili mayo, optically and tastefully a pleasure.

The fried baby calamari with young vegetables were also very decoratively arranged, the tentacles all aligned on one side and the tubes on the other, and they were also very tasty (17.90 before the last closure, now 18.90). It’s one of the few dishes that has increased in price.

There can be no talk of supposedly fat price increases in the catering industry. However, € 3.50 for 0.1 liter of open Sauvignon blanc, even if it accompanies the fish dishes very pleasantly, is quite fat.

Joe, the landlord, has, as can be seen from the Internet, an adventurous life behind him. For a long time he lived, learned and worked in the USA. Customers in the Würmtal now benefit from this. Excellent steaks – rib-eye regionally from Bavaria, beef fillet from Allgäu young beef, Charolais fillet from French bulls – at a price between 25 and 38 euros, depending on weight and type, there is also “Americano Burger” – Chicken, Cheese and Classic (12, 90 to 13.90). Top quality beef fillet also as straccetti with rocket and parmesan (19.90) and in tender strips with one of the four types of bowls (vegan, chicken, salmon and beef fillet strips – 8.90 to 14.90). These bowls – you can’t do without them at the moment – contain black rice, lots of seeds and sprouts and all sorts of the best vegetables, dressing of your choice.

It was and is important for the landlord and guests that dishes can be picked up and then retain their taste and consistency. It worked flawlessly with Joe. The Pizza Liguria with anchovies and olives (9.50) and the Vegetariana with various vegetables (10.50) with a thin base and crispy edge were very neat. The spare ribs St. Louise Style “guaranteed juicy fall-of-the-bone meat experience” kept this promise (12.90). The contents of the chicken basket would have been good enough for two, even if there would have been a dispute about the delicious fillet pieces (13.90). The hearty ribs as well as the chicken pieces called for a schnapps after their enjoyment.

“Joe’s recipe: Always open. Always good food. Always good wine. Basta.” It has proven itself for the host and guests.

Address: Bahnhofplatz 1, 82166 Graefelfing, phone: 089/8573042, opening times: daily 9 a.m. to midnight, warm meals from 11.30 a.m. to 11 p.m.; www.joemarino.de

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