It no longer needs to be introduced: retinol, this form of retinoids which belongs to the family of vitamin A derivatives. For several years, the use of this active ingredient has become more widespread thanks to the numerous research and innovations carried out to make
its simpler application and to improve its tolerance on the skin. Marketing stunt for anti-aging advertisements or a real skincare gem? 20 minutes asked dermatologist Nina Roos and Art Pellegrino, senior vice president of RoC Laboratories, (the first brand to market retinol products without a prescription in 1996), to tell us if the retinol craze was really justified.
“Retinol has been around for over 20 years and has been working for over 20 years”
The best ? This is a statement that dermatologist Nina Roos cannot make to our newspaper, because everyone’s skin is unique. On the other hand, she affirms that scientific research proves that “retinol is undoubtedly one of the most powerful anti-aging active ingredients on the skin”. “Retinol has been around for more than twenty years and has been working for more than twenty years,” she says. HAS 20 minutes, Art Pellegrino, senior vice president of RoC laboratories explains that it is the most studied and documented anti-aging cosmetic ingredient in the scientific literature. “In particular, it has been shown that the effect of retinol on the skin does not fade. The more you use it, the more it will act on your skin and the more it will improve your wrinkles,” assures the latter.
Among other things, retinol is known to fight against photoaging because it has “a complete action on the different layers of the skin”. As much with a minimum dosage of 0.03% up to 1%. In cosmetics, “it’s not the strongest who wins, it all depends on the overall composition of the product,” explains the dermatologist. When using retinol, you first notice more supple and less rough skin because it increases the thickness of the epidermis. Then, wrinkles will gradually diminish thanks to the action on collagen synthesis and the reduction of collagen degradation. Finally, retinol will also reduce pigment spots, thanks to its action on pigmentation.
Retinol, the Swiss army knife active ingredient
If retinol has such good press, it is because it is as effective on the signs of aging, the production of collagen and hyaluronic acid, as on other skin problems. Indeed, it is a real Swiss army knife which acts on: the appearance of pores, the regulation of sebum production, acne, microcysts, pigment spots, and cell renewal through its exfoliating effect. It is in particular this Swiss army knife aspect which contributes to its popularity with consumers, and its interest in cosmetics. “Retinol has a multitude of benefits that don’t stop at anti-aging benefits. It has also been proven that retinol can also restore radiance to the skin,” adds the RoC vice president.
As a cream or serum, RoC experts recommend using this active ingredient only from your twenties: “It is at this period that cell renewal slows down and signs of aging (wrinkles, fine lines) can begin to appear “. However, its use must be gradual so as not to “sensitize the skin”, warns the dermatologist. Once the skin is used to it, this form of vitamin A can be used as desired! “RoC conducted a one-year clinical study, proving that the benefits of retinol improve over time and do not stagnate,” concludes Art Pellegrino.