Italian gastronomy is increasingly popular in France. Just browse the shelves of a supermarket to be convinced. But if there is a niche in which Italy is struggling to impose itself, it is that of cheeses (and also desserts, it must be admitted). Apart from a few essentials, such as parmesan, mozzarella or even gorgonzola, for the rest, transalpine products are discreet in the land of 1,000 cheeses (almost).
This is why the Associazione des formaggi italiani (AFI) held a stand at the last International Food Fair (SIAL) in October to promote five cheeses made from cow’s milk, with the help of chef Denny Imbroisi, a former Top chef season 3 and also ambassador of Grana Padano. On this occasion, we asked him to present the specificities of these Italian cheeses.
Bufala campana mozzarella
It is a fresh spun cheese made from buffalo milk in the Campania region, around Naples. According to Denny Imbroisi, it is the elasticity of mozzarella that is a guarantee of quality: “The harder it is, the less good it is”. In fact, he advises against overcooking it, because you lose its very special texture. “And if you heat it, a good mozzarella must remain white, if there is a gratin effect, it is that it is of poor quality”, reveals the Italian chef.
Asiago
This cheese from the mountains of northeastern Italy is relatively unknown to the French. “Fresh Asiago is used more in cooking, while matured cheese is kept for tasting,” says Denny Imbroisi. Aged Asiago is made from partly skimmed milk, because aging a cheese that is too fatty exposes it to going rancid very quickly.
Gorgonzola
Originally from Piedmont and Lombardy (north-east), gorgonzola comes in two forms: sweet and the picking. The first represents 90% of the production but it is the second which is the original gorgonzola. “The difference between the two lies in the maturing time,” explains the Italian chef. Fifty to 150 days for the sweet against 150 to 270 days for the picking. The blue in the cheese comes from the holes that are made in the wheels allowing oxygen to enter and mold to develop.
Grana Padano
It is the most exported Italian cheese in the world, mainly to Germany. Thus, 45% of production is sold abroad. Its name comes from Padania, the region around the Po where it is produced, and from the feeling of grain that we have when we taste it. “It takes 15 liters of milk to produce one kilo of Grana Padano, calculates Denny Imbroisi. With ripening, lactose becomes 100% protein, so even lactose intolerant people can eat it. The chef recommends using the 16 months of ripening for cooking and tasting the grana padano riserva, with at least 20 months of ripening.
The taleggio
This soft, raw cheese, originally from Lombardy, looks a bit like French raclette cheese. Moreover, it can be used for the same functions. “It’s a very mild cheese with a fruity flavor,” describes Denny Imbroisi. It is also quite possible to eat the crust. »