In the Far East, it becomes particularly clear how the relationship between neighbors China and Russia has changed over the decades. Trade is flourishing – but China dominates.
The mild summer wind carries a few bars of “Katyusha” to the shore. It’s a Russian classic – interpreted in Chinese. China and Russia are only a stone’s throw away from each other here in Blagoveshchensk. Excursion boats make their way on the border river Amur late in the evening.
The two waterfront promenades are vying for attention: the one in Blagoveshchensk with a gigantic Russian flag. The ones in Heihe with red-lit high-rise buildings with glowing gold letters and a Ferris wheel that serves as a screen.
“It’s all just a facade”
Andrei Sabijako doesn’t want to know that the Chinese city is slowly but surely overshadowing its Russian neighbors. It’s all just a facade, says the China expert, who grew up in Blagoveshchensk. Heihe is rather small and quite ordinary. Very different from the Russian border town, which is developing at a high level.
For all his patriotism, he doesn’t deny that relations with the neighboring country have changed. Gone are the days of navigating the river to celebrate a cheap birthday or to go bowling. Or for cheap shopping: imitation brand shoes, plastic household goods, clothing, groceries – simply everything, confirms Li Lihua, the model Chinese entrepreneur in Russia’s Far East.
Bridges connect the two cities – the goods transported have changed over time.
China from importer to exporter
China used to buy technology from Russia: Lada, Kamaz, construction machinery. “I remember how a Russian woman said at the time: We’ll exchange our technology for your noodles. Technology is valuable. What are your noodles or thermos flasks worth?” Li says.
Times have changed now, she says proudly. Chinese excavators are on construction sites. Russia supplies soy. Chinese car manufacturers are pushing into the Russian market, producing directly in Moscow.
Unilateral dependencies?
Trade turnover has increased significantly, says Viktor Larin from the Far East branch of the Academy of Sciences. Mainly because China is filling the gaps that Western companies have left by turning their backs on the Russian market.
He finds it normal that China is also trying to get Russian oil and gas, which is no longer being delivered to the West, at dumping prices if possible. That is “naked pragmatism”. China looks after its own interests and Russia looks after itss.
The renowned scientist wants nothing to do with a one-sided dependency. After all, it is no secret that China is dependent on Russian gas and oil drips – and is therefore also dependent.
Little depth in relationships
What the economic experts in the Far East complain about is something else: the lack of real community projects, even in the border area. Customs formalities would have to be simplified and harmonized, but this would first require modernization of the Russian customs offices.
There is also still potential when it comes to expanding the infrastructure. A bridge over the Amur was ceremonially opened in Blagoveshchensk last year. It is a popular photo motif and the destination of excursion boats. Only a lot of traffic is not to be seen. Some people complain that it’s too expensive. Others say there is still a lack of logistics on the Russian side.
Notwithstanding the friendship and partnership with China proclaimed in Moscow – even in the Far East, where both countries are close, there is a lack of real depth in relations. They are neighbors who greet each other, get along, but ultimately live side by side.