Imagine having lunch in a magical palace setting to 49 eurosthe starter, the main course and the dessert… Norbert Tarayre had promised that it would be possible at the restaurant on 19.20 of Prince of Wales, in Paris. He did it. And extremely well done. Through “energy savings”, “local products” among “the most basic of everyday life”. And a “cooking technique” which systematically slays food waste and which the former Top Chef, at the origin of the great wave of non-Parisian bistros, in the Paris region, has mastered for a long time.
So certainly, on paper, its menu will not impress the most aesthetic gourmets: grated carrots, egg mayonnaise or celery remoulade as a starter, Landes poultry, pork loin or salmon tournedos as a main course, trolley with mousse au chocolate for dessert…
Hazelnuts in celery
But his carrots, sliced with a Japanese mandolin then infused for six hours in orange juice, with turmeric, ginger, fresh horseradish, mustard, garlic, shallot, vinegar and lemon juice, take it up a notch. And it’s a treat.
Even more surprising, an exquisite celery remoulade decorated with hazelnuts, infused with lemon with kaffir lime leaves, and seasoned with mayonnaise whipped up with mascarpone combined with smoked pike roe.
The tournedos of salmon, just seared, finished with salamander, so really semi-cooked, with a fine broccoli mousseline, grilled broccoli, small grilled broccoli and lemon confit, pomegranate condiment is not bad at all. Especially accompanied by the chef’s white butter: 150 grams of white vinegar, 150 grams of white wine, 200 grams of finely chopped shallots, all seasoned with 400 grams of butter.
Dessert specialties
“Keep a little room for desserts,” advises the chef. As we are very nice – but don’t tell anyone – if you are very nice to the waiter, in addition to a little coffee eclair, if you want to taste a little bit of chocolate mousse, that’s for us, that’s it pleases. »
This is how Norbert Tarayre was able to “get in on the prices”: He chooses quality ingredients, but at low prices, which allows him “not to skimp on anything”, even if he does not count his hours to “sublimate them “.
“This is what makes the menu accessible for you and affordable for us,” he says. »