Since 1946, it has acquired a good reputation thanks to its marinières and knitted sweaters in traditional knits of marine inspiration. However, the ready-to-wear brand Royal Sea, based in Loire-Atlantique and Ille-et-Vilaine, is now a survivor. Twice, in less than ten years, it almost disappeared. Placed in compulsory liquidation in 2015 due to strong international competition, it only owed its salvation, for the first time, to a duo of buyers and a strategic repositioning.
“We redesigned the collection, we refocused on knitting, our signature, taking the risk of putting aside all our fabric items [shorts, chemises…], explains Hervé Coulombel, President of Royal Mer. We are now fully committed to the quality and durability of our products. At the same time, the brand has also tried to rejuvenate the target clientele, which is rather high-end, by adding colors and strengthening its presence on the Web. And it works. Driven by renewed enthusiasm for the made in FranceRoyal Mer has recovered spectacularly, doubling its turnover in a few years (5 million euros in 2021), despite still fierce competition in the segment of Breton sailor-style clothing (Saint-James, Armor -Lux…).
“A unique know-how sought after”
Distributed in more than 200 French points of sale, the company now produces 60,000 pieces a year in its workshop in La Regrippière, in the heart of the Nantes vineyards. Some 70 people work there, including around 50 experienced seamstresses. “This unique know-how is sought after. After the rise of inexpensive and disposable clothing from Asia, there is a growing interest in short, reasonable circuit products that will last over time. This remains fragile because we cannot offer prices as low as Asian manufacturers. But the tide is turning. So much the better for us”, appreciates Hervé Coulombel.
This rise of made in Francehonored this week during the large eponymous Parisian salon in which Royal Mer is present, has also enabled the brand to develop subcontracting for other renowned brands: Agnès B., Sézane, Hopaal, Fusalp… “They seek to produce in France and are naturally aimed at we. This now represents 25% of our activity,” says Hervé Coulombel.
Masks as a lifeline
However, this revival was almost short-lived. In 2020, hit hard by the Covid crisis, Royal Mer once again finds itself in danger. “All our resellers closed shop overnight. Two-thirds of our spring-summer collection remained at the dock,” recalls the business manager. He then came up with the idea of throwing himself fully into the production of masks. More than 600,000 masks, knitted in the house style, will come out of the La Regrippière factory. “It definitely saved us,” he says. The staff was extremely mobilized. We have the feeling of having participated in the collective effort. It was also an opportunity to demonstrate that we could be reactive and that we knew how to do something other than clothes. »
If the mask activity was interrupted, like most French manufacturers, due to the late but massive arrival of Chinese masks on the market, the Royal Mer workshop nevertheless continued to diversify. In 2021, a first shoe, a sneaker hand-assembled with recycled materials, was launched. A second shoe model, winter and in wool this time, should follow. At the same time, to cover its back, Royal Mer is also thinking about getting into knitted elements for decoration and furniture. “These are avenues that we are seriously exploring,” confirms Hervé Coulombel.