Under the first drops of autumn, the trench coat is revealed! This season, a simple stroll through the streets is enough to spot the classic camel coat. Whether it adopts a fitted, loose, belted or unbelted cut, in traditional beige or other shades, the famous English coat is reinvented every year to conquer fashion fans. 20 minutes went to meet Louise Drouhet, founder of the clothing brand Soubacq, and Aloïs Guinut, image consultant and author of the books Dress like a Parisian, Why French Women Wear Vintage, And The Little Book of Paris Style (all at Hatchet), in order to unlock the secrets of this long coat that has become essential in the French wardrobe.
A practical coat full of history
“The trench coat was originally a military garment used in the trenches, but it owes its fashion success to Charles Macintosh and Thomas Burberry,” confides Aloïs Guinut to 20 minutes. Invented in the 1860s, the trench coat long retained a purely practical use during the First World War. British soldiers wore it to face bad weather, before it was also adopted by women after the war. “Burberry and Macintosh trench coats are references,” she adds.
Thomas Burberry revolutionized the trench coat with his waterproof fabric, gabardine, and Charles Macintosh with his two-layer cotton technique that he integrated into the coat. Originally two slightly different varieties of trench coat, they now inspire all their variations. The Burberry coat and those inspired by it have “a checked lining, shoulder pads attached with buttons, belted sleeves and rows of double-breasted buttons,” explains stylist Aloïs Guinut. Macintosh trench coats are more refined and simple with a “sealed buttonhole, a more rigid, straight cut and without straps”.
Taken up by fashion houses such as Yves Saint Laurent in the 1960s, the trench became a fashionable item of clothing after being popularized by the bourgeoisie who wore trench coats initially reserved for officers. “Utility clothing becomes fashion clothing because we like this well-thought-out, practical side that lasts, like jeans, overalls, or many other pieces,” explains the founder of the ethical clothing brand Soubacq, Louise Drouhet. Feminized by fashion and popularized by Hollywood cinema, the coat subsequently became an international trend combining style and practicality.
A timeless elegant piece
“The trench coat has a pure and hard utilitarian side that comes first, it offers a great working base for exploring one’s creativity,” enthusiastically shares Louise Drouhet, the founder of Soubacq who recently unveiled her own version of the trench coat. “It’s a classic garment which, with a few adjustments, can take on a very modern look, which is why it’s a piece that can be made your own without too much difficulty. “.
As fall 2023 arrived, Soubacq expanded its range with a Macintosh and military archive-inspired trench coat, the new item saw a surge in sales, confirming that the decades-old garment still finds its audience.
Classic and practical, this piece has won over the French public thanks to its “effective” side, according to Louise. Although we have seen it in flashier colors or more daring materials such as leather or satin at Victoria Beckham for example, the trench coat has not lost its fans. It remains a fashion element that adapts to trends while maintaining its functionality. “Today, the French are looking for something efficient, with fewer and fewer frills, while still being aesthetic,” emphasizes Louise.
In recent years, the trend for trench coats has evolved, adopting cleaner lines for women and a more rigid silhouette for men according to fashion novel author, Aloïs Guinut. According to the stylist, the trench meets the needs of Parisians who seek to remain elegant even in rainy weather. “We walk a lot and quite a bit outside, so the trench protects while being handy and elegant. It goes well with casual clothes like loose outfits, but also in a more chic way with short dresses for women, for example,” concludes the stylist.
Faced with the vagaries of autumn weather, the trench remains a must-have which continues to surpass other competing jackets, whether the down jacket or the peacoat, in the hearts of the French. With its adaptability and revisited style, the trench is essential for facing bad weather while remaining trendy.