White, ecru, red, blue… Red mixed with blue, turning to purple? Displayed on a large board, on the second floor of the headquarters of Le Coq Sportif, all the lines of thought concerning the artistic direction (AD) of the outfits for the athletes who will represent France at the Olympic Games are considered. “My favorite is that one,” presents the director of the company, Marc Henri Beausire, pointing to a piece of mesh fabric made up of three stripes in the colors of the tricolor flag.
The DA, close to the flagship colors of Le Coq Sportif, does not denote habits. But this time, the idea does not come from the brand. To dust off her image, the one who already dressed French athletes during the last Paris Olympics in 1924, recruited a “trendy” fashion designer.
The company works with Stéphane Ashpool, founder of the Pigalle brand and winner of the Andam Grand Prix, intended to support young French designers. After consulting the “consequent specifications”, bringing together the requirements of the brand, those of the organizing committee of the Olympic Games, and those of each sports federation, the designer accepted the challenge of dressing more than 4,000 people. for Paris 2024.
The 40-year-old is not only a creator but also a sports enthusiast. Stéphane Ashpool was particularly noticed for his design of a basketball court near Pigalle. Alongside his creative activities, he coached the youth team of Pigalle Youth and Sport in Paris. “He has the power to unify sport and beauty,” says the director of Le Coq Sportif.
Reinterpreting the colors of France
If the outfits are still only at the prototype stage, two key ideas have already been selected. The designer wishes to “take inspiration from the tricolor flag, and reinterpret it” to create his outfits. A way, for the latter, “to represent France, in all its diversity”. To do this, it has already been established that the outfits will be made from ecru [une matière textile, de couleur beige claire, n’ayant subi ni lavage, ni blanchiment, ni teinture]. “While leaving room to add color,” says Stéphane Ashpool.
Red and blue will be added to each outfit, more or less subtly depending on the outfits and disciplines. On the first campaign visuals, the designer becomes a model and unveils the first pieces of the collection. Eventually, it will be enriched with all the training, competition and representation outfits of each French athlete. Only the clothes reserved for the opening and closing ceremonies will be made by another brand. A luxury brand “if we are to believe the rumours”, specify the two collaborators mischievously, without wanting to give more details.
“Awakening skills”
To remain 100% French, the company wants to have the athletes’ outfits produced in the country. A very ambitious idea. Certain techniques, necessary for the production of equipment for certain sports, are not practiced in France. So, to make the judogi, worn in some martial arts like judo, they resurrected an enthusiast’s old machine. It was also necessary to go as far as the Lyon basin to find jacquard fabric, used to make the outfits of the rugby players. “As many opportunities to reawaken know-how,” says Marc Henri Beausire.
But “many materials are no longer produced here at all”, explains the latter. Half of the textiles used for competition outfits will therefore be produced abroad. The making of clothing for the general public is also outsourced to minimize production costs. These unisex caps and T-shirts, bearing the emblems of the French team or the Olympic Games, will therefore be assembled in Morocco. A less expensive range, which will be available in supermarkets as summer 2024 approaches.