Full-bodied promises are part of business in tourism advertising. And yet it is a little surprising that the Black Forest community of Schömberg promises so much to visitors to its new “Himmelsglück” observation tower: namely, “completely new moments of happiness”. With its slim waist it is undoubtedly architecturally appealing, but the basic idea is still not exactly original: Almost 150 years ago, a Baden hiking club in the Black Forest built its first observation towers to give those looking for relaxation that summit experience that is so often missed in the low mountain range. In the Black Forest alone there are around 60 observation towers of various designs. So what is so special about the latest example that the community of Schömberg has built on a ridge in the northern Black Forest, a good hour away from Stuttgart and Karlsruhe?
First of all, it must be said that presumption is a concept in Schömberg. The small town with just under 8,000 inhabitants declared itself a “Glücksgemeinde” (community of happiness) in 2009 and had this name protected under trademark law. At that time, she confidently contacted the Buddhist Kingdom of Bhutan, where the government measures the country’s “gross national happiness” – and thus allegedly also the well-being of its citizens. At home in the Black Forest, a group of local politicians, church representatives and administration worked on a concept that was supposed to lay the foundations for a “meaningful, good and successful life in all its facets” for the residents of the community. The mayor traveled around as an ambassador of good fortune and was even invited to a United Nations conference in New York in 2012.
The then head of tourism was only looking for an advertising idea, but initiated a process with it. This brought the place supraregional attention, but after a few years it turned out that not all citizens were happy about the collective search for meaning with its esoteric facets. When there was a change at the top of the town hall in 2015, the new CDU mayor Matthias Leyn reduced the title “Glücksgemeinde” to a useful marketing tool. Today the title complements the official, but somewhat fun-free designation “state-approved climatic health resort”, with which Schömberg also adorns itself, in a clever, only sometimes somewhat penetrating way: the guest information is called “Glückszentrale”, the booklet with the tour suggestions “Wanderglück” , the new observation tower “Himmelsglück”.
300 steps lead up, but there is also an elevator – and then: a wider view over trees into the country.
(Photo: Uli Deck / dpa)
Schömberg has proven its versatility again and again after 130 years ago it suddenly rose from a farming village to an important climatic health resort. This development was triggered by an Erfurt merchant who is said to have stayed in the Schömberg rectory for a few months in 1884. Cures in Switzerland did not bring him any permanent improvement, it is said – but in Schömberg he was cured of his lung disease. The man was enterprising and bought the Gasthof Zum Hirsch, which he converted into a “Luftkurhaus” and opened in 1888. Soon afterwards, the first sanatorium was built, and by the First World War there were already four.
Another building boom followed in the economic boom after the Second World War. In 1961 and 1962 the number of guests reached their highest level. Shortly afterwards, however, the beds in the many private sanatoriums and hospitals remained empty. Thanks to penicillin, there were hardly any more tuberculosis cases. In the 1970s, Schömberg therefore decided to reorient itself. The community built a wave pool (which was demolished a few years ago amid the wailing of many residents). The clinics switched to other target groups. Private investors financed a spa house. When the health minister at the time, Horst Seehofer, plunged the health resort financed by health insurance into a deep crisis in the 1990s, Schömberg was also hit.
Today, a rehab clinic for orthopedics and lung diseases, a psychosomatic specialist clinic and a children’s clinic provide a stable basis for the overnight stay balance. On the travel market, the place positions itself as a “climatic nature adventure community” – with guided hikes, seminars and offers for families, all with a tongue-in-cheek promise of happiness. There is a well-signposted network of cycle and hiking trails and several themed trails, including one for children who want to playfully learn something about the silver fir that shapes the landscape here.
At the opening of the observation tower, the small town presented itself with well-tended flower beds and bright green deck chairs and parasols with the lucky logo in front of the surprising number of specialty shops in town. Families play mini golf in the spa gardens, children romp in the playground and hikers cool their legs in the Kneipp pool.
The tower can be seen as a further twist in the tourism concept: the connection between nature and event. It cost 3.8 million euros and was mainly publicly funded. Access is only possible for visitors with an admission ticket. The community has joined the Prices (Adults 7.50 euros, family ticket 22 euros) oriented towards other attractions in the area, says Marina Moser, head of the municipal tourism and health resort. The treetop path in Bad Wildbad is only a twenty minute drive away.
In good weather conditions, the view should extend from Himmelsglück to Hohenzollern Castle on the Swabian Alb. On the opening weekend, however, the distant view was obscured by clouds, and the operators were not really lucky with the elevator either: it was not yet ready for use. If you wanted to get to the top platform, you had to climb 300 steps – and then back down again. At least there should be alternatives from spring 2022. Either you can be comfortably carried down in a kind of zip line that leads through the forest towards the village. Or you can try the faster Flying Fox. Adrenaline rush is guaranteed. Possibly one or the other moment of happiness.
Information: schoemberg.de
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