tourism
Tourists and holy mountains: Bali fights for its dignity
After several incidents of bad behavior by vacationers, the local governor wants to close the holy mountains for tourists. photo
© Carola Frentzen/dpa
Faith, culture and mythology are omnipresent in Bali – at the same time the inhabitants are open and tolerant. The flair inspires tourists. The fact that some people let their covers down has consequences.
The scent of incense sticks wafts through the mild tropical air. Balinese women in bright sarongs pray in front of small shrines and lay offerings: baskets made of palm leaves filled with flowers, rice and holy water. Figures of the lion-like Barong, who represents good, fight against Rangda, the evil demon queen. They stand for an inseparable contradiction, but also for an ultimate goal: harmony.
Culture and religion are omnipresent in Bali – it seems as if there are more temples than houses. This is what makes the Indonesian dream island so special. But the harmony is lacking right now.
Recently, there have been repeated unmannerly incidents with naked or half-naked tourists – with consequences for all Bali fans. Island governor I Wayan Koster no longer wants to look at the disrespectful behavior and is taking a hard line.
Guide with rules of conduct in the passport
Those entering the country now get a guide with rules of conduct attached to their passport right at the airport. And trekking tours to the magnificent volcanoes of Gunung Batur and Gunung Agung could soon be a thing of the past.
Because the name “Island of the Gods” is not a cliché. The Balinese belief – called “Agama Hindu Dharma” – is a particular and complex type of Hinduism mixed with mythological elements. He is the central point in the life of the people there. “Even if we ourselves don’t always understand exactly what certain ceremonies or prayers of the priests are all about,” says the taxi driver Ketut. But one thing is certain: visitors should respect the culture of the host country, especially when it comes to sacred places.
That’s why there are now clear rules of conduct for every holidaymaker: It’s an absolute no-go, for example, to climb sacred trees or religiously revered buildings. Koster also felt compelled to ban indecent clothing or even nudity.
What incidents have happened in the past?
In March, a Russian blogger was deported after showing his bare buttocks on Mount Agung, considered the seat of the gods. In May, a Danish woman exposed herself as a passenger on a motorcycle in the holiday resort of Seminyak – she was arrested. And also last month, a Russian tourist snuggled up to a sacred banyan tree, completely naked, and posted photos of it online. She too was deported.
Weeks ago, Koster announced that foreigners might be banned from renting scooters after violations of the rules and accidents had occurred on the streets. Especially in the south around the party stronghold of Kuta, a helmet is often seen as an unnecessary accessory. Last week Koster announced that only official rental companies would be allowed to rent two-wheelers.
At the same time, he urged locals to report tourists who behave in abusive ways or disregard regulations. “Quality and dignity” must be returned to the tourism sector. Violators face severe penalties – from imprisonment to deportation.
Will the sacred mountains be closed to tourism?
Koster’s most recent initiative – to block the island’s mountains for any kind of tourism – went too far even for many Balinese. According to Koster, vacationers had danced naked on the peaks and posed immorally. “Mountains have a sacred essence that makes them revered places, so we ban mountaineering activities,” he said.
This is not only met with resistance from mountain guides, but also from local politicians – after all, Mount Batur and Mount Agung are particularly popular destinations. Critics warn that a ban would deprive many Balinese of their livelihood and severely affect the important industry. After the Corona pandemic, the island is only just beginning to revive the tourism industry, which is so important.
Deputy provincial government spokesman Tjok Gde Asmara Putra Sukawati urged Koster to reconsider the plan. He suggested obliging tourists to hire local mountain guides. They would then have the task of informing their customers about the importance of the mountains and the correct behavior.
The travel guide Ade Firmasnyah is also strictly against a blanket ban. “I work as a mountain guide and I love the mountains,” he told the German Press Agency. “There are many people who work in mountain tourism. If that is banned, then there will be big protests,” he is convinced. However, he advocates raising the prices for trekking tours to the volcanoes, establishing clear rules and cracking down on those who misbehave anyway.