Tourism in Bhutan: Kingdom wants to become more exclusive

The Buddhist kingdom is considered an exclusive vacation spot. However, the borders have been closed since the beginning of the corona pandemic. Now they’re reopening – but the tourist tax has more than tripled.

By Charlotte Horn, ARD Studio New Delhi

Everything is ready for the big day: more than 480 guides are waiting for the first tourists. This was announced by the moderator of Bhutan’s state television a few days ago.

Bhutan has specially trained the tour guides. The country expects vacationers to expect more for their money. Because the so-called fee for sustainable development, which all tourists have to pay, no longer costs the equivalent of around 65 euros per day, but 200 euros. The Bhutan Tourism Council is therefore anticipating a different type of tourist, according to director Dorji Dhadhul.

Only country with a negative carbon footprint

By 2019, the country would have had all sorts of visitors, says Dhadhul. Now he expects people who travel more consciously, mindfully and responsibly. The fee is intended to help the country to develop sustainably, for example in environmental protection.

The kingdom with its approximately 800,000 people is the only country in the world with a negative CO2 balance. But are tourists getting more bang for their buck now?

“That’s a good question. You definitely support Bhutan more and in a sustainable way,” says Wolfgang Keller. He organizes trips to Bhutan for a tour operator from North Rhine-Westphalia. Before the pandemic, tourists had to book a package consisting of hotel, meals and the tourist fee. Now this fee has more than tripled, but the offer has basically remained the same.

Not everyone benefits

Keller’s impression is that the money doesn’t just peter out like in neighboring countries such as Nepal, where corruption is very strong. “The money is already flowing into the right places. Bhutan simply needs money after the pandemic,” says Keller.

He is now skeptical about the increased costs – especially after two and a half years without tourists and income in the pandemic, the industry’s hopes were high. Smaller agencies and hotels in particular would not hold out, suspects Keller.

Before the pandemic: 30,000 tourists annually

“The big danger is that fewer guests will enter the country – even if they leave more money,” says Keller. This also means that fewer staff are needed, fewer in the hotels, fewer guides and fewer drivers. Keller assumes that in the end the state of Bhutan will benefit, but that the individual participants will have less business and share in it.

Nevertheless, Tshering Dorji hopes that business will be as good as before the pandemic – with almost 30,000 tourists a year recently. He has been organizing trips through his home country of Bhutan for almost 30 years – primarily for German tourists. He understands the increased fee.

The money will benefit the country, in line with the “gross national happiness” index for Bhutan, which is unique in the world. In addition, you make sure that not too many holidaymakers come.

“Noble initiative” or simply too expensive?

In the years leading up to the pandemic, Bhutan was on the verge of becoming a destination for mass tourism, says Dorji: “Therefore, the fee is the only way we have about it – in the interests of our society and the environment. It’s a very noble one Initiative and a vision that will serve Bhutan and the Bhutanese for generations to come.”

Keller also sees exclusivity as the main goal of the increased tax: “Bhutan’s hope is that it will become even more of an exclusive destination. To the Apple cell phone of tourism. It is very difficult to assess how this will develop.” Keller himself is currently revising the offer for round trips – with fewer days in Bhutan.

The first German vacationers will fly next week. For the coming year, Keller expects half as many bookings for the kingdom as before the pandemic. He has some guests who would like to travel to Bhutan but can no longer afford it.