The links between fashion and sport have never been so highlighted, whether at the Palais Galliera, the fashion museum of the City of Paris, where the exhibition “Fashion in motion” has just ended or at the Museum of Decorative Arts, still in Paris, which will present its exhibition “Fashion and sport, from one podium to another” starting September 29. Because, off the field, sport has also spread its dress codes and an art of living in the streets and among the greatest designers. In terms of looks but also the art of living, rugby is no exception.
“The codes of rugby lean towards the feminine side”
“With rugby, there is really an idea of proximity, kindness, simplicity and humor. When we see rugby players, we say to ourselves that they are big babies who grew up too quickly with their curves and their natural relaxation” explains Vincent Grégoire, Consumer Trends & Insights director for the consulting agency NellyRodi. And if these immense and muscular physiques which collide on the field evoke to you the height of the clichés of virility, it is in reality quite the opposite that we must see, continues the trend specialist: “the codes of rugby lean more towards the so-called female side. The players were the first to get completely naked in calendars, to play the soft-hearted machos. But, above all, it is a very inclusive sport, in which homosexuality is not taboo, where we do not hide our tears and where bodies are not standardized.”
Values that can be found in clothing directly inspired by sportswear. The polo shirt is certainly the most emblematic piece of the outfit. It can be worn by both men and women, always in natural tones like grass green or navy blue, with very graphic patterns like stripes and checks and a colored collar.
“What makes Eden Park strong is the rugby jersey,” explains Franck Mesnel, former player and creator of the brand. “It is at the heart of the collections, and it is from the codes of this jersey that we develop our creations. These codes are used everywhere: the plates, the collars, the oval buttons. The constructions of the emblematic Barbarian, Japanese, cut-and-sew jerseys or even the circled stripes specific to the jerseys are also available. A style also claimed in the collaboration between the New Zealand brand Rodd & Gunn and the legendary rugby ball manufacturer Gilbert, which offers a “United by Rugby” capsule collection, composed of polo shirts, Teddy jackets and velvet pants in blue tones dark and khaki green.
Luxury, a bastion to conquer
Many brands also want to break the classic codes by playing more on the codes of women’s wardrobe. Like Eden Park, essential in the locker room rugbywear, whose emblem is a pink bow tie. A color now widely associated with the oval, with, in particular, the “coup” of Stade Français in 2005 when it presented its iconic fuchsia pink jersey. An incongruity in the world of high-level sport where shades of pink are rare.
There is another area into which the world of rugby has entered by surprise, that of beauty. As early as 2015, star Sébastien Chabal lent his image to Dépil-tech, a network of institutes practicing permanent hair removal. This year, Eden Park and the cosmetics brand Sothy’s have formed a partnership to offer a range of in-room treatments and at-home products for men.
But if there is a field on which rugby players have not yet scored a try, it is on that of luxury. “Unlike footballers, rugby players don’t have anything bling-bling. They are associated with the terroir, frugality and fun. Do we often see curves and smiles in luxury advertising campaigns? » analyzes Vincent Grégoire. And even if Louis Vuitton signs the case that protects the World Cup trophy, it is “anecdotal” he adds. We should therefore not see many players in the front row of the Paris fashion week parades which begins on September 25, in the middle of the World Cup. That’s good, we hope that the players of the French XV will aim for another podium on October 28.