The famous Pétrus in Bordeaux, the no less well-known Musigny and Montrachet in Burgundy… and Rangen from Alsace! The terroir located near Thann, in the Haut-Rhin, was designated at the beginning of November among the 12 largest vineyards in the world, according to the specialized magazine Decanter. A suprise ? “I’m not saying that I expected it, but it had to be at least in the top twenty”, replies Alexandre Schoffit, who owns a little more than five hectares of the twenty cultivated on site. “In 1983, the magazine Cuisine and Wines of France had already placed it in the five greatest terroirs of France”, adds Olivier Humbrecht, whose estate is also one of the rare owners of the place.
It must be said that the Rangen has to be earned… Although the setting is quite idyllic with a super-steep hillside that stops at an altitude of 430 meters and overlooks the Thur river, the work in the vines is not easy there. The slope “can reach 130%” in places, with an average of 90%. “Which corresponds to around 45°, i.e. the roof of an Alsatian house”, image one of the two winegrowers. Obviously, this prevents any mechanization and some pickers even find themselves roped for the most difficult to access areas.
“It’s a magical place, summarizes Alexandre Schoffit, who could talk about it for hours. The soil is volcano-sedimentary. The rock, pointed and angular, is dark but you shouldn’t imagine cooled lava like on Etna, for example. There, they are rather cooled ashes. This is reflected in the wine, with a smoky side on the nose then lots of very exotic notes on the palate and a nice fullness. We then have a slightly tannic sensation followed by a third fairly saline effect. It’s very salivating and long! »
“His Pinot Gris has no equal”
Three grape varieties are planted there, Gewurztraminer at the foot and especially Riesling and Pinot Gris. “His Pinot Gris has no equal among the great wines of the region. I am proud to say it”, assures Olivier Humbrecht before wanting to be more general on the Rangen: “it is a terroir that we have been talking about for hundreds of years. It’s no coincidence, it gives great wines, almost regardless of the talent of the winemaker. »
Still, its notoriety today is not the same as for others within this famous classification of Decanter. Why are you late ? Several reasons are advanced by specialists. Starting with the reduced size of the Alsatian vineyard (about 15,000 hectares), and therefore its advertising strike force, compared to its French competitors. In Burgundy, the double is cultivated, against ten times more in Bordeaux. “But there are also historical aspects,” continues Alexandre Schoffit. Our wines did not follow the same trade routes as the others. Alsace is consumed more in the Nordic countries, where it arrived thanks to the Rhine. Not to mention that we also suffered from diseases like phylloxera, all in a difficult place to cultivate. At one time, people preferred to go to work in the factories of Thann rather than scatter in the Rangen. »
“We must not forget the two world wars either, with the damage that it left. I will not tell you the number of pomegranates that were found there, continues his colleague, whose father relaunched production in the 1970s. Because of all that, there were many complicated periods and no wine for almost fifty years, starting between the wars. Inevitably, it weighed. »
“It will do good for all our wines”
Since then, this grand cru, the southernmost in Alsace, has been best known to specialists, as evidenced by the excellent ratings it receives each year in specialist guides. But this new light could also restore its former glory to the general public… The two winegrowers want to believe it. “It will help Alsace and do good for all our wines. Having this kind of recognition reassures people,” says Olivier Hombrecht. “French consumers sometimes find it difficult to think of Alsace. I hope that the Rangen will contribute to putting a better image on the region”, supports Alexandre Schoffit.
“The wines of Alsace, in particular the Grand Cru Rangen, have nothing to be ashamed of, on the contrary, we are the guarantors of this incredible wine-growing heritage, the fame and quality of our wines of which must spread beyond our borders. “, adds Hervé Schwendenmann, president-winemaker at Wolfberger, the third main owner of the hillside. Proof that the classification of Decanter is already bearing fruit, requests are currently pouring in for the latest vintage of the Rangen. “I’m going to have to work with a system of allowances (reservations)”, laughs Olvier Hombrecht, who has also planned to increase the price of the bottle, from “100 to 110 euros”. Tasting one of the greatest terroirs in the world has a price.