South of Colombia: drugs and war reigned here – now it’s tourism

Guerrillas and cocaine dominated Colombia’s south, and no one wanted to travel there. After long years of war, the region rediscovered its real treasure: the jungle.

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One morning, Cesar Arredondo sneaks through dense rainforest, a telescope over his shoulder. He wants to show that where others saw a gloomy place, paradise lies. Leaves crunch under his boots, howler monkeys roar in the distance. Arredondo looks into the treetops and listens. He pauses. A trill. His eyes begin to glow.

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