150 years ago, German politics, plagued by aggressive convulsions, had calmed down somewhat. After the turmoil of two wars and the founding of the German Empire, August 1872 saw a glimpse of summer peace. In those days, the mentally ill King Ludwig II made his way to the Schachenalpe in the Wetterstein massif. Shortly before, a mountain house had been completed there, which the king had dreamed of for years. From then on he wanted to be able to enjoy the high mountains there, with every comfort.
Back then, hardly anyone could imagine what was going on at the Schachenhaus, 1,866 meters above sea level. If the king had built a hunting lodge there, many would have seen it. Until then, big game hunting had been a tradition well-kept in the royal family. But Ludwig II was planning something completely different, he was looking for a retreat where he could “imaginarily escape to distant oriental worlds”, as the website of the Bavarian Palace Administration puts it. The king had a keen sense for good seats. From the Schachen you can enjoy one of the most magnificent views of the Bavarian Alps. So it’s no wonder that the so-called Schachenschloss, although it may seem rather modest compared to Herrenchiemsee and Neuschwanstein, is still a popular destination today. “It’s a special refuge,” said Minister of Finance and Homeland Albert Füracker, who is now practically the head of the house, on the occasion of its 150th anniversary. He described the royal house as “an impressive gem of the Bavarian Alps” not only because of the unique details, but also because of its breathtaking view.
However, it takes some effort to achieve this goal. In order to be able to fulfill the royal vision at all, a way to transport the building materials had to be created, the costs of which were almost as high as those of the high alpine royal house itself.
A jewel of the Bavarian Alps: the Schachenhaus, depicted in an old postcard motif.
(Photo: Imago)
It is obvious that from 1872 onwards Ludwig II celebrated his birthday and name day on the Schachen almost every year on August 25th. After all, from there he could see several of his refuges in the mountains, including the hunting lodges of his father Maximilian II on the Hochkopf and on the Grammersberg and the viewing pavilion on the Schöttelkarspitze in the Karwendel. Since he suffered greatly from the growing limitations on his options – caused by the conflict with Prussia and the struggles with his own state parliament – he withdrew there more and more often.
Of course, he didn’t expect to make the ascent on foot, preferring to travel on the saddle and in a sedan chair. The king usually stayed in the chess house for ten to twelve days. His entourage consisted of up to 20 employees who worked around the clock. There were times when they had to serve lavish meals in the middle of the night. However, there was a special reason why the host allowed himself to be served mocha and date tarts on the Schachen.
View of the Turkish Hall on the top floor of the royal house on Schachen.
(Photo: Andrea Gruber/Bavarian Palace Department)
Ludwig II had the upper floor of the wooden building furnished with a magnificent oriental hall. From the outside, it looks like a so-called Swiss house, a type that the nobility and upper middle class valued as an alpine holiday home in the 19th century. The Turkish Salon is modeled on a historic hall in an 18th-century sultan’s palace. Ludwig II discovered a picture of this hall in an English publication. With its richly ornamented walls, stools, divans and lavishly decorated accessories, the salon exudes an atmosphere straight out of the Arabian Nights.
“Take the strongest and make it your own” is a Bavarian recipe for success, says historian Klaus Reichold. Ludwig II implemented this principle sustainably at this location. Luise von Kobell (1828-1901) recorded the scene in detail: “Here, between the two windows, Ludwig II sat reading in Turkish costume, while his entourage of servants, disguised as Muslims, lounged around on carpets, smoking tobacco and sipping mocha , as the royal lord had commanded, who would then glance over the edge of the book at the stylish group, often with superior smiles, incense burners being scented and great peacock fans waving through the air to add to the illusion… “
The high alpine climate on the Schachen left visible traces on the tabourets. The extraordinary seating furniture, of which there are six in total, has now been extensively restored.
(Photo: Hella Huber/Bavarian Palace Department)
Six tabourets from that time have now been painstakingly restored in the restoration center of the Bavarian Palace Administration. The harsh, high-alpine climate on the Schachen had left visible marks on the unusual seating furniture, for which oriental fabrics were used. They are also special because of their mysterious origin.
The German Air Force flew the peacock feathers and other accessories from King Ludwig’s oriental buildings to Munich for the “World Cultures and Modern Art” exhibition, which was on view in the summer of 1972 at the Haus der Kunst in Munich. Since their return, they can be admired again in their original ambience with an iridescent play of colored light – as part of a unique royal spatial work of art on alpine heights.
On the occasion of the 177th birthday of King Ludwig II, a mountain mass will be held in front of the royal house on the Schachen this Thursday, August 25th. It starts at 11am. The destination can only be reached on foot. The walking time is three to four hours, depending on the path chosen. The Leitenbauer family takes care of the physical refreshment after the service, who manages the chess house (Tel. 0172-8768868). Guided tours take place daily at 11 a.m., 1 p.m., 2 p.m. and 3 p.m. Further information: www.schachenhaus.de