Status: 07/16/2022 12:31 p.m
After four months of war, there is something akin to nightlife again in Kyiv: restaurants, clubs and music bars are open. But there are still restrictions – and the mood is subdued.
There is hardly any place in Kyiv where the war seems further away than in the “Kyiv Food Market”. Several restaurants are housed side by side in the old brick hall – Thai, Vietnamese and sushi, very hip, very urban. Andreyj must feel like he is on another, better planet.
He comes from Mykolayiv, which is currently being repeatedly hit by Russian missiles. He visits his brother in Kyiv and enjoys the “nice atmosphere” over a hot dog. “People work, they’re happy,” he says — that motivates him to “persevere.” With support, he affirms, “everything will be fine, Ukraine will win.”
A shopping mall called “Kyiv Food Market” in Kyiv.
Image: Marc Dugge
Eat before lockdown
Russian troops withdrew from Kiev’s suburbs a few months ago. The restaurants in the “Food Market” have also been open again since mid-May. In the weeks before, lunch packages were packed here for the Ukrainian soldiers – a solidarity action by the restaurateurs.
Today it’s back to normal operations. However, sales have fallen by more than a third, says the manager of the Kyiv Food Market, Oleg Shkarowskyj. Many people have left Kyiv, the tourists are no longer coming – and then there is the evening curfew at 11 p.m. You can currently only order food until around 8.30 p.m.
“The employees now work shorter hours so that they, like our customers, can get home safely on time,” says Schkarowskyj. “There is currently no live music or entertainment, no DJs.”
“It’s not like it used to be”
DJs, discos, dancing – that’s practically taboo in Kyiv at the moment. Nightclubs are only open during the day, if at all. Muiz still has to get used to it. The techno fan moved to Kyiv specifically because of the good nightlife.
“Yes, on Fridays and Saturdays there are sometimes parties before the curfew. They close at 10 p.m.,” he says. “It’s no fun, I hate it. That’s why I recently went to Berlin. I missed the clubs so much!”
As a foreigner, he has the opportunity to leave Ukraine. This does not apply to Ukrainian men of military age. But in these times, many don’t feel like dancing anyway. And the young Ukrainian Roman also sees the people who populate the restaurants here with a critical eye: “There’s a war out there! It’s a bit too normal here… It’s not like it used to be! Because you know that people, your Darling, risk your life on the front lines.”
“Music for Victory” donation box
Katerina is of the same opinion. With her little daughter on her arm, she strolls past the restaurants where the guests eat their dinner. “It’s good that our soldiers aren’t at the front for nothing. Because of them, our children and I can lead a normal life and relax. But if they do, please do so in moderation, without excesses,” she says. Her husband has been at the front in the embattled Donbass for months. She doesn’t know when he’ll be home.
Everything seems slowed down in Kyiv. Cafes, restaurants and music clubs are open. But there is a shadow over everything. The fact that nothing is normal is shown by the sign at the entrance, which shows the way to the next air raid shelter – and the occasional air raid alarm.
“For the Victory”: A donation box is set up next to the stage in “Pepper’s Club”.
Image: Marc Dugge
Hard times – not only for DJs, but also for bands. In the “Peppers Club”, a music club in Kyiv, people don’t want to do without music completely: “This is the front of music! Many musicians don’t earn any money anymore, others have struggled and are traumatized.”, says the waitress Jarena.
To collect money, the club organizes evenings under the motto “Music for Victory”: Guests can put banknotes in a box next to the stage.
“This song is dedicated to the fallen soldiers,” says the singer of the band “Kudasov” and intones a solemn ballad. A few still dare to dance in front of the stage. But only very cautiously.