The Best bakery in France returns to M6 this Monday for a tenth season. The establishments in the running will be judged by the Meilleur Ouvrier de France Bruno Cormerais, chef Norbert Tarayre and… pastry chef Noëmie Honiat. Former participant of Top chef in 2014, the new recruit claims to have “learned a lot of things despite [sa] jury position “.”The Best Bakery in France”.
If the profession is struggling to employ and is hard hit by the increase in the cost of energy, this caterer, who exercises on the bakery aspect mainly for weddings, has an optimistic outlook. “We are clearly not here to break or to carve but to listen to everyone’s story and judge a know-how”, she assures 20 minutes.
The filming of The best bakery in France is a marathon. How did you live this experience?
It went extremely well. At first I was a little impressed, especially by Bruno because there is respect for the Meilleur Ouvrier de France collar. Norbert I know him very well because we did the casting for Top chef together and we have a very brotherly relationship. Naturally, over time, a real bond was created between the three of us. And then there is really a small family around this show. Everyone welcomed me with open arms and put me at ease very quickly. It was just awesome.
After ten seasons, it was time for the show to recruit a woman to its jury, right?
It’s clear that I bring a different sensibility. When I ask participants questions, I have a feminine look, with my own analysis. Especially since I like gossip. We are not affected in the same way on the creations with Bruno… We complement each other really well. What I will bring again is a more in-depth analysis on pastry. Today, it is something very important when you enter a bakery. Ditto on the snacking part: we are far from the ham and butter sandwich and we see real recipes from cooks. Having this role is very enriching… Humanly speaking, I met real enthusiasts. Professionally, I learned a lot of techniques and recipes.
For you, what is a good bakery in 2023?
It is a passionate professional, a team that works in a good mood and a qualified place on the bread and pastries part, on the pastry part and on the snacking part. You need all three. And then you also need a dose of creation, originality and a welcoming store.
Were there any surprises in your baker’s tour of France?
It happened very regularly. I tasted things that made me feel like a Proust madeleine, reminding me of my grandmother’s cake. Others surprised me with techniques that I didn’t know or cheeky combinations… We had bread with octopus in it, with sardines on it… Improbable things!
For the first time, the show stops off outside the metropolis. Is the baker’s job really different on the island of Reunion where you went?
The know-how is not the same, the products are not the same so we are in a total discovery. Reunion is the region where people were the most welcoming and the months stressed that their bakery closed during filming.
For several months, bakers have been warning about an increase in their production costs, due to an increase in the cost of energy. Did you feel it too?
I am still a wedding caterer so, of course, these are things that affect me too and it is clear that it is not easy for everyone. But the purpose of the show is to highlight the professional. A baker who appears on the show will boost his turnover. We are clearly not there to break or to carve but to listen to each person’s story and judge a know-how. Afterwards we give marks because that is the purpose of the competition, but it is always benevolent.
This increase in costs adds to many obstacles that are piling up. Should we be worried about the future of the profession?
I think that when it’s a passion, we go all the way. What is interesting in the show is that we meet all types of people. For example, we see that there are a lot of conversions. We have seen doctors, firefighters, who have embarked on the bakery and who are fulfilled and happy as ever. So it gives a lot of ideas, especially for young people.
Do you think that The best bakery in France can create vocations?
Downright ! When you’re a student and a bit passionate, you watch shows like Top chef Where The best bakery… Inevitably, it arouses vocations, it opens doors and, clearly, hotel schools feel it. If at least one person is tempted to become a baker, we win. This can inspire college students who are wondering about their professional orientation. In 70% of cases, when I asked bakers where their passion came from, they told me about their discovery internship in third grade…
You are not a bakery expert. Has the show changed your view of the profession?
Yes. When my relatives, who don’t know anything about it, bring me pastries or bread bought in a supermarket, I say to them: “Throw that in the trash! » (laughs) A wand bought in a shopping center is not the same as from an artisan. Since I’ve been on the show, I’ve had a much sharper opinion on the bread I want to eat and especially the quality of what I want to give my children. I see it as an accelerated training course with Bruno, who explains to me how you can recognize good sourdough, good dough… The program encourages you to say to yourself: “Ok, we may pay a little more for our baguette, but at least we know what’s inside and we see the baker working behind it”, there are no more secrets.