Anyone who wants to buy a Rolex has had to dig deeper into their pockets for a few years now than they already have. Available watches currently tend to cost twice or even three times as much. That doesn’t change the demand. Now the otherwise very secretive manufacturer used the start of the “Watches & Wonders” trade fair in Geneva to present this year’s collection. There are big surprises among the new timepieces, as well as hardly visible changes despite the new model number.
With the arrival of the new items in the catalogue, some of the public’s favorites had to give way again, much to the chagrin of interested parties and collectors, who, due to the enormous waiting times, were still waiting in vain for the response from the concessionaire, and who now have to reckon with a cancellation and the high prices on the secondary market are delivered.
“GMT-Master II” for left-handers
Probably the biggest surprise is the new “GMT-Master II”, model number 126720VTNR. This watch is a special left-handed version that has been turned around. The crown and the crown guard are on the left side of this watch, even the date display and the magnifying glass have been moved by Rolex. The bezel is two-tone, this model appears with a black and green “Cerachrom” insert, a combination that, according to official statements, is “exclusively reserved for this model”.
The “Air-King” entry-level model has also been revised. The changes to the case are clearly visible, the watch now has a crown protection and an “Oysterlock safety folding clasp”, which is more present than the clasp on the previous model. According to the manufacturer, a new luminous material is used on the dial. Rolex relies on caliber 3230 for the movement, which also works in the “Oyster Perpetual” models. The power reserve is now 70 hours, compared to 48 hours with the old 3131 movement.
News in precious metal watches
Something has also happened with precious metal watches: A platinum version of the “Day-Date” is now also available in 40 millimeters with an ice-blue dial and ribbed bezel – price on request. Also new: a yellow gold “Yacht-Master” with a diameter of 42 millimeters on the so-called “Oysterflex bracelet” for 26,450 euros and a size 42 “Yacht-Master” in white gold with “hawk eye” dial for 30,100 euros. “Hawkeye” is a variety of quartz that only occurs in the colors dark blue, blue-grey and blue-green.
Three new models of the “Datejust” are also available, including a watch in two-tone “Rolesor” and one in yellow gold. The special feature of these watches is the floral dial, where Rolex has used numerous diamonds, the starting price is 9400 euros.
As an eye-catcher, but probably not as a mass product, Rolex has also shown a “Yacht-Master” with a diameter of 40 millimeters, the bezel of which is completely set with diamonds, as are parts of the case. Unlike the other new products, the watch with the model number 126679SABR is not listed in the online catalogue, and the price is also not known. Rolex is only likely to make a few copies of this model, and an exhibition at an official dealer is not to be expected.
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In addition to the major innovations, Rolex has also slightly changed other models. For example, the yellow gold “Day-Date” in 40 millimeters now also available with a green dial. Also new to the range are a “Day-Date” 36 in Everose gold and one in platinum.
The “Deepsea” diver’s watch has also been revised, and Rolex lists the large 44-millimeter watches as “new model 2022”. However, the differences to the respective predecessor are minimal. Attentive observers want to have noticed that Rolex has slimmed down the bezel a bit, the glass has changed slightly and the diving extension (“fliplock extension”) is missing. In a direct comparison to the predecessor with the number 126660, that would be a deterioration, at least as far as the scope of delivery is concerned.
Rolex removes popular models
It’s a pity for collectors who haven’t gotten a chance due to the long waiting times: some of the color options for the basic “Oyster Perpetual” model have disappeared from the range. For the watch with a diameter of 36 millimeters, there is no longer a yellow or coral-red dial. In the case of the 41-millimeter version, the currently most popular turquoise model, often called “Tiffany”, has disappeared in addition to the colors already mentioned.
As far as the lack of availability of popular models for years is concerned, Rolex continues to cover up with solutions. There was no change to the previous sales strategy in the course of the new product launches, and there is still no sign of an online shop like Omega already offers. If you ask the larger jewelers about the availability of the new watches, they say, as usual, that you neither know when sales will start nor about the delivery quantity – again this year is all you can get hold of after the presentation of the new models can, a place on the waiting lists of the concessionaires.