France debates law against fast fashion

From today on, France’s parliament is debating a bill that would regulate so-called fast fashion companies. There is talk of surcharges for cheap clothes and a ban on advertising.

A dress for 15 euros and a t-shirt for one fifty. Passerby Ilian is wearing a shirt, suit trousers and leather shoes and explains that from his point of view it is a cliché that the French only wear designer fashion. “The competition is called fast fashion,” he says.

A bill is now being debated against disposable fashion in the land of haute couture, introduced by the Horizons party, one of the three in the presidential camp. MP Anne-Cécile Violland initiated it and explains the background:

“The textile industry produces excessively and that leads to excessive consumption. This has an impact on the environment – the textile industry is responsible for ten percent of global CO2 emissions, more than all air traffic.”

Six kilos of CO2 per T-shirt

With four billion tons of CO2 per year, the textile industry is the third dirtiest industry. Each T-shirt contributes six kilos of CO2. Because polyester requires petroleum and cotton cultivation is pesticide-intensive like no other crop.

The environmental organization “Les Amis de la Terre” speaks of 3.3 billion items of clothing sold in France, one billion more than in 2013. Particularly in its sights: the Chinese online fashion retailer Shein.

Deputy Violland complains about “a total invasion by these large chains, which is causing French companies to close one by one.” They did not use the same methods as their cheaply produced competitors, “which do not respect the rights of workers in the producing countries and expose them to toxic substances.” This has an impact across Europe.

70 percent of the clothing sold is fast fashion

But the sales figures show that fast fashion is trending worldwide. China’s giant Shein has increased its sales by 900 percent in three years. And a study by market researcher Kantar shows that in 2022, 70 percent of the clothing sold in France was fast fashion. The law is now intended to inform and encourage people to change behavior and thus promote sustainable consumption.

Law initiator Violland believes that no one can claim that they did not know the true cost of this fashion for the environment, people and the market.

It wants to sanction cheap fashion based on three criteria: “excessive production, low prices and aggressive advertising. By 2030, we want to add up to ten euros per item of clothing, but a maximum of 50 percent of the purchase price. A base will be introduced for how many references are renewed per day. Shein launches 7,200 new models every day, 900 times more than French retailers.”

A bonus for “made in France”?

According to “Les Amis de la terre”, the Spanish brand Zara has just 500 in one week. It will be a legislative balancing act to define fast and ultra fast fashion.

But you could also slow down production and then fall below the base. All of this should be controlled by the state.

France’s textile industry welcomes what is ecological and against unfair competition. The bill also finds political support and many are even calling for more: for a fast fashion import limit or a Made in France bonus. The conservative Républicains warn that the planned advertising ban would interfere too much with the free economy.

Advertising ban as the method of choice

According to the proposal, advertising for fast fashion should be banned in the future. Influencers who gleefully unpack their packages on the Internet in front of hundreds of thousands of followers could be a thing of the past. And law initiator Violland goes even further: there should not only be rules that are at least as strict as those in alcohol advertising:

To prevent hundreds of thousands of tons of clothing from being thrown away every year in France, there is an anti-waste law that also requires fast food chains to have recyclable tableware. A repair bonus for clothing has existed since the end of 2023.

“It all depends on the quality,” explains Céline, dressed in a top, jeans and sneakers. But she adds: “In fast fashion, the fabric is so bad that it’s not worth it to invest money in repairing it!” You just throw the things away or donate them.