Is the fashion industry settling down? Italian houses have swapped streetwear fashion for classic and elegant cuts. The pants are long and cover the shoe, the oversize trend gives way to fitted cuts.
Wasp-waist effect suit
Dolce & Gabbana offers suits with jackets that are sometimes short, matador style, or long with structures that mark the waist. Fendi opts for narrow single-breasted jackets, discreet lapel collars and a reduced version of the men’s suit waistcoat. At Ferragamo, everything is pinched for silhouettes with marked waists inspired by the fashion of the Hollywood divas of the 1950s. At Max Mara, the coats are gathered in the back, at Tod’s the jackets are fitted or belted. At Moschino, the houndstooth skirt suit with golden Chanel buttons is king.
winter lingerie
We find particularly light and bare looks and a great presence of lingerie… in the middle of winter. Dolce & Gabbana unveils a collection mainly in black and almost entirely composed of corsets, bras and other underwear. Roberto Cavalli makes long hippy versions of silk and velvet babydolls. The Gucci collection confirms the trend, with micro jeweled bras and clearly visible underskirts under transparent petticoats.
Yeti-style coat
The big hairy or feather coat is essential to avoid catching cold with the new bare outfits. In blue fake fur or in the Cruella Deville style at Gucci, while the animal effect is larger than life for Roberto Cavalli’s coat. Max Mara sets the benchmark for the genre and presents its famous comfort teddy coats that invite you to wrap yourself in them. MSGM declines it in mauve, lemon, curly white, fringed or long-haired. At Ferragamo, it is pearl gray or flamboyant red.
Long live red, long live black
If black is very present, a red thread comes in all its shades, from vermilion to burgundy. Ferrari, which has launched a ready-to-wear line, does not resist the temptation of its iconic red but does it discreetly, putting it in the linings of dark coats or in flat areas on a ringed dressing gown coat black.
Dolce & Gabbana offers red from head to toe: from the red veil tights to the patent sandal, the dress, the gloves, the bag, the lipstick, everything is scarlet. At Prada, the skirt suit is in pure red leather. Fendi’s latest looks are also a reminder of how red and pink go together.
Uniforms are class
Prada has clearly defined this trend, which could become a school: a whole series of looks take up the white of nurses’ uniforms transformed into long shirts with short trains or the outmoded capes of World War II operators. Tight-fitting officer’s shirts worn with ties and high-waisted cigarette pants give the collection its feminine rigor.
We find aviator parkas at Tod’s and leather officer belts with a small incorporated pocket. Fendi also plays with the codes of utilitarian clothing, by dressing up its pants with aprons or opting for revisited overalls.