Anyone who climbs up to the cross-shaped buildings carved out of volcanic rock in the Ethiopian highlands will experience a very special atmosphere.
The dark hum could be heard all night. Now, with a candle in your hand, you climb the rocky steps at dawn towards the source of the liturgically droning chants. And after a short tunnel you are right in the middle: in the canyon-like forecourt of Bet Meryem, the Church of St. Mary, one of two dozen rock churches that were hewn into the volcanic rock around the Ethiopian pilgrimage site of Lalibela at 2500 meters in the 13th century.
Only the torches of the faithful illuminate the walls. Reddish tuff. No stones, no joints, just a single monolithic block more than ten meters high. Orthodox Christians have been making pilgrimages to this wonder of the world for more than eight centuries. How long did it take to shape this church – just with a hammer and chisel? Legend has it that it took a handful of monks just over 20 years to do it. It is said that when they rested at night, angels would do the work.
The appearance of the believers lying in the rock ditch around the church is also angelic. All in white. Some stand, some sit, others sleep wrapped in their prayer shawls. You’ve stayed up all night. Whoever is awake joins the chorus. Through the door of a side chapel you can look into the holy of holies: monks and priests in shiny costumes and colorful fringed umbrellas marching around an open Bible. Their deep voices tremble with fervor. Clouds of incense waft from the windows carved into the boulder. Then the first rays of sun hit the tuff walls, letting them glow red and gold. A blessing from above!