Women are shoving thick bunches of herbs into bags, wooden crates overflowing with sour green papaya are being wheeled through the market’s crowds and little girls in colourful saris sit on towers of textiles playing on their phones.
Nearby, a man with a machete is slicing coconut on a tree stump, his foot swathed in plaster and a plastic bag — clearly recovering from a recent machete-coconut injury.
Even under our face masks, the scents are unmistakable. We take in