“ My daughter vomited on my Desigual shirt. No way of knowing where. » »
Here is one of the most popular jokes on social networks at the turn of the 2000s and 2010s. At that time, Desigual was a sort of clothing version of Justin Bieber on the Web: a magnet for more or less inspired jokes. Source of mockery? “The brand had a slightly kitsch style, with strong colors and an overloaded aesthetic,” recalls Moïra Cristescu, creator of the eponymous fashion brand.
About ten years later, a Spanish miracle: the brand is now trendy. A feat all the more resounding since “Desigual did it while retaining its DNA, where it might have been tempting to make a 90-degree turn when losing speed,” enthuses Sophie Malagola, creator and former director of collections at DIM and Etam.
The age of maturity
“The same DNA”, with the colors still very pronounced and the prints noticed. But also a hint of wisdom, and even “sobriety” for Sophie Malagola. A word that we could hardly imagine seeing Desigual affixed to it. And yet: “It’s the same spirit, but more refined. As if the brand had reached maturity,” continues the designer. Same delighted observation for Moïra Cristescu: “The aesthetic is more upscale. They calmed down a little in their patchwork. There are still prints, still bright colors, but they no longer go in all directions. I never thought I’d say this one day, but Desigual has gotten sharp. »
A new maturity, due to “a choice to focus on small emerging designers”, lists the expert: Maria Escoté, Maitrepierre, Hed Mayner… But also more renowned figures in fashion, such as a fruitful collaboration with Christian Lacroix. “He too was a bit of a creator has beenbut this meeting of has been was very conclusive. A bit like in mathematics: less x less = more,” laughs Alice Audrezet, teacher-researcher at the Fashion Institute.
In October 2023, model Sara Sampaio, with 9 million Instagram followers, arrives at Paris Fashion Week in 100% Desigual. On the business side, after a plunge caused by Covid in 2020, the brand has regained growth and has 500 stores spread across more than 92 countries.
The return of color
However, Desigual does not owe this return to favor only to itself. Because every miracle needs a favorable context. If its patterns attack the retinas less, it is also because, generally speaking, “color has become more democratized in fashion and is making a gradual return,” underlines Sophie Malagola. No more fifty shades of gray and blue from the Nordic countries, it is less and less rare to come across pink, green, red and other bright colors in wardrobes.
Another trend the brand is riding on, “Y2K nostalgia (from the 2000s)”, develops Alice Audrezet. “Desigual was once has been because it is too emblematic of the period. But now, there is a return of hype around this decade.”
Marketing irony
Enough to chase away the jokes of yesteryear? Not really. But the big difference with fifteen years ago is that now, the Iberian brand has decided to use these valves rather than endure them. Alice Audrezet analyzes: “When we look on TikTok, posts – often sponsored by the brand – make fun of the Desigual clothing that “your Spanish teacher” wore and which has become cool today. The consumer is therefore aware of this turnaround, and ironically participates in it. »
The teacher-researcher continues: “In fashion, the consumer is a willing victim, complicit in marketing communication strategies. He agrees to wear clothes with designs so absurd it’s brilliant, so ugly it’s cool. » So rest assured, if you find that Desigual remains kitsch, your taste does not necessarily need to be called into question. More like your humor.