They tasted. Unable to sell their production due to the closure of bars and especially restaurants imposed by the Covid-19, cider producers have tried everything. Last year, the drink they put so much heart into preparing could not be sold. Part of the surplus had to be transformed to produce vinegar, household alcohol and even fuel after being methanized.
After the storm, the profession is trying to learn the lessons of this bitter-tasting year 2020 and faces an implacable observation: whether in Brittany or Normandy, it is too dependent on restaurants and creperies. “The closures hurt a lot. Producers have turned to mass distribution, but not everything has been sold, ”recognizes Yves Maho.
The profession needs “a rejuvenation of the image”
Based in Crac’h, in Morbihan, the owner of the Auray country cider house hopes to make his favorite drink more popular. “In the countryside, in the years 1950-1960, cider had its place on the table. This is no longer the case. History has wanted wine to supplant it, ”concedes the man who became president of the Maison cidricole de Bretagne in March.
To get out of the crêperies network alone, the profession needs, according to him, “a rejuvenation of the image”. “We still have to get out of the image of grandfather’s harsh drink. All the cider growers have improved their working method and our products are of very good quality. We still have to let it be known ”. The still growing success of beer obviously makes them want it. Each French person drinks an average of 30 liters per person, while cider barely exceeds five liters per year and per household.
Cider must go upmarket to appeal to the youngest
To redo the cherry, apple fans are counting on a trend from the United States. In recent years, cider has become very popular there, establishing itself as a sweet, light, low-calorie and very feminine drink. “I hallucinated when I saw this in New York. There are bars that offer superior product selections. It’s an almost luxury product, which sells for $ 20 a bottle, ”says Charles Kergaravat, a former New Yorker. The president of the Breizh Amerika association believes that cider must gain in modernity and move upmarket to appeal to the youngest.
In the United States, the growth is enormous because the products are perceived as authentic, natural, of quality ”
In cans or small bottles, apple alcohol has found its audience by playing on its “fruity” side. “This is the style says notnew world. Ciders are made with knife apple varieties because there is no tradition of apple cider cultivation in the United States. It’s a bit like making wine from the same varieties of grapes that you find in grocery stores. In the end, this makes acidulous, light and fresh ciders without tannins, so no bitterness and very little astringency, ”explains Claude Jolicoeur, cider based in Quebec and author of numerous books on the subject.
“We will hear a lot about cider”
This US trend has obviously not escaped the Breton officials who dream of being inspired by it. “The selling price is higher there, whereas with us, cider is still perceived as cheap. It is ungrateful because our fermentation and the monitoring of the vats require more time than for the wine, ”recalls Yves Maho.
The president of the cider house is convinced of this: “France and Europe will follow suit, I am sure, cider will appeal and we will hear a lot about it in the years to come”. Brittany and Normandy are just asking for that.