From our special correspondent in La Cambe (Calvados),
They are hung in the windows of houses, on the windows of businesses and in all public places. In full commemoration of the 80th anniversary of the D-Day landings, the American, French, English and Canadian flags are flying all over Normandy to celebrate the victory of the Allies. In the small town of La Cambe (Calvados), not far from Omaha Beach, the German flag is also out to bear witness to the reconciliation between yesterday’s enemies. Even if in this small village of 550 souls, the wounds have not yet all healed. “There are still some here who continue to call them Boches. That’s how it is,” recognizes Bernard Lenice, mayor of La Cambe.
It is here, on the other side of the national road 13 which connects Paris to Cherbourg, that 21,222 German soldiers who fell during the fighting from June to August 1944 are buried. A much more sober place of contemplation than the American cemetery of Colleville-sur-Mer. A large basalt lava cross five meters high overlooks a tumulus. With, all around, rows of small crosses grouped by five and simple terracotta plaques fixed on a concrete base, where the names and ranks of the deceased soldiers appear. “We feel a sense of shame when entering this cemetery,” says Corinne, who came from Île-de-France with her family for this entire week of commemorations.
“On both sides, the war was terrible”
Spanning more than 7.5 hectares, with more than a thousand trees planted as a symbol of peace, the La Cambe site also hosted the remains of American soldiers just after the war, before their repatriation to the country or their transfer to the Normandy American Cemetery. Officially inaugurated in 1961, La Cambe is the largest of the six German cemeteries in Normandy (read framed). The busiest too, with 450,000 visitors each year. “This wasn’t always the case because before, people came there a little secretly. It is now an essential site to visit,” says Marie-Annick Wieder, curator of sites for the Volksbund, an association which maintains German war graves in 46 countries.
In dignified silence, all nationalities meet here, the Dutch and the Belgians in the lead, to honor the memory of the vanquished. “I have nothing against the Germans,” confides Peter, originally from Utrecht. On both sides, the war was terrible.” On the graves, the age of the German soldiers buried, most of whom were under 20, moves Suzon, originally from Nancy and married to the son of a deportee. “They were forcibly recruited because of the madness of some people and they did what they thought was good for their country,” she says. “There is no resentment, just sadness to see all these lives wasted,” adds his son Vincent. It’s part of history and we must not forget it.”
The tomb of the much-visited “German armored ace”
Among all these young soldiers who fell in Normandy, 2,100 Waffen SS are also buried. Including some infamous like Adolf Diekmann, the mastermind of the Oradour-sur-Glane massacre. Or Michael Wittmann, a tank commander nicknamed “German tank ace.” An officer whose grave is by far the most visited in the cemetery. Twice, his plaque was stolen without it being found, forcing the Volksbund services to seal it even better.
Admirers and those nostalgic for the Third Reich have also gotten into the habit of placing various objects there, such as miniature tanks, photos or oak leaves found on many German military insignia. “We have to clean regularly and remove all these objects,” says Marie-Annick Wieder. Last year, a black sun, a neo-Nazi symbol, was also painted at the foot of the mound before being quickly erased.
The Germans are discreet
In the paths of the cemetery, whose lawn was carefully mowed in preparation for the commemoration which took place on Wednesday afternoon, it was ultimately the Germans who remained discreet among the flow of foreign visitors. “There is always a kind of guilt that is present, even if it fades over the years,” indicates the curator of the place.
Moreover, on this sunny Monday morning in June, we come across Thomas, a bouquet of roses in his hand. With his wife, he traveled from northern Germany to pay tribute to his great-uncle killed during the D-Day landings. Very moved, he also said he was very happy to see so many foreigners honoring the memory of his fellow citizens: “This place is a wonderful message of peace! »