In the area, lovers of good bottles already know: the Dolia, in Castelnau-le-Lez (Hérault), is a real temple for those who love (good) wine. Now, the reputation of this bar shines even more: the magazine Land of wines rewarded him with
Grand prize for the best wine list in France.
This distinction, Marco Bertossi and Yoann Berlie, the bosses, hoped for. They stood out against other bars, which nevertheless had sometimes much larger collections. But quantity is not the key to a good wine list. At the Dolia, there are 600 references. And all of them, we “serve them with pride”, confides Marco Bertossi, who was, for six years, the sommelier of the Tour d’Argent in Paris. But there are “a few favorites”, such as the wines from Domaine des Souls, on the terraces of Larzac.
“Wines we love”
“A good wine list is a balanced menu, with enough reds, whites, etc. Including at the price level, he continues. But it must also represent the characters of those who make it. You need a card with a soul. In which we put our guts. “Dolia wines are first and foremost” wines that we love, “says Yoann Berlie, a former student at the hotel school. We taste them all, in the salons, or directly from the winegrowers. We do three to four tastings per week, roughly. “
When it comes to selecting wines, “we work by heart,” confirms Marco Bertossi. There are sometimes very good wines, but they suit us a little less. This aspect is important. Some wines speak to us, others a little less. We select them according to our sensitivity. And if people come to La Dolia, it is to rediscover that sensitivity. “Even if it means doing without very popular bottles. “We will never take sides against a wine,” says Marco Bertossi. But we can’t do everything. And others do it very well. “So with sommeliers Gabriel Jousset-Drouhin and Théo Souty,” we offer alternatives to customers, “adds his partner.
Wines “off the beaten track”
At La Dolia, we also put our emphasis on “unique” wines, which “go off the beaten track”. “Particularly in blends,” notes Marco Bertossi. Foreign wines, too, which are rare, in wine bars. “Right now, for example, we have a wine from Etna, which is a little marvel,” he continues. The way the winegrower works also matters in the creation of a menu. “Almost all of our wines are organic, biodynamic or in the approach,” explains Yoann Berlie. We are careful what we eat, so be careful what we drink, too. “
For these two enthusiasts, finding little nuggets to share with customers is a constant concern. “We put all our money in there,” says Marco Bertossi. Instead of making big salaries, we capitalize on wine. »And for the local winegrowers, it is a real support. For Benoît Huet, from the Hérault domain Caujolle-Gazet, who unloads a few boxes this Wednesday at La Dolia, it is even “absolutely fundamental. Especially since wine is a fragile sector. “