The First World War catalyzed significant social and cultural transformations in Quebec, especially for women, who gained some autonomy and envisioned new freedoms following their participation in the war and the securing of federal voting rights in 1918. Influenced by American women, many began to challenge societal norms during the 1920s, a time marked by the rise of the “garçonne” style, representing a bold paradigm shift and the emergence of a confident female identity, ultimately leading to increased questioning of women’s rights and roles in society.
The First World War brought about significant social and cultural changes that transformed Quebec, especially for women. Their participation in the war effort and the achievement of federal voting rights in 1918 allowed them to gain a measure of independence and, above all, to dream of new freedoms.
In this environment, many women, heavily inspired by their American counterparts, embraced this wave of change to challenge societal norms. The 1920s, often referred to as the “Roaring Twenties,” represented an extraordinary period of emancipation for women, highlighted by the rise of the androgynous style known as “garçonne.”
THE FIRST INFLUENCERS
At the dawn of the 20th century, magazines and newspapers began showcasing more female stars with slender figures. These were women with modest busts, narrow hips, and exposed long legs. This marked the advent of advertisements in women’s magazines, promoting a plethora of corsets, girdles, and tricks to achieve these new fashion ideals.
The 1920s style also encouraged women to crop their hair to ear length. This hairstyle trend was popularized through various mediums, including the famous French novel La garçonne by Victor Margueritte, as well as films like Flaming Youth, and iconic figures such as Louise Brooks, Joséphine Baker, Coco Chanel, and even popular culture characters like Betty Boop.
This fashion, known as “flappers” in English, became extremely trendy during the 1920s. For these women, the garçonne look transcended mere fashion; it was a social statement—a bold and carefree declaration that challenged the conservative norms of their time.
THEY ARRIVE DOWNTOWN
In the aftermath of the Great War, most Quebecois began living in urban areas. Downtown Montreal transformed into a hub of enjoyment and consumerism, especially along Sainte-Catherine Street and Saint-Laurent Boulevard. Women flocked there to explore the new shopping wonders (Dupuis Frères, Eaton, and more), watch movies, or relish entertainment in cabarets, drinks in hand and cigarettes at the ready. They danced the tango, foxtrot, and charleston, flaunting tans, makeup, and jewelry. Some even dared to wear trousers. Naturally, such extravagance shocked the Catholic clergy, who frowned upon women straying from their divine purpose as ideal wives meant solely for procreation. Bishops did not hesitate to issue moral advisories condemning these women, while priests from the pulpit urged parents to caution their daughters against the vices of downtown life.
Despite facing substantial critiques, this garçonne style spread across Quebec during the Roaring Twenties. This transformation occurred concurrently with the emergence of numerous feminist organizations. It was a time when more women publicly questioned their fundamental rights, particularly the right to vote and access to universities.
Indeed, the desire of women to reject their grandmothers’ fashion choices signified a clear yearning for emancipation. Ironically, this new trend also placed a heavy burden on women regarding body image, leading them to invest significant sums to alter their physiques and compelling them to reinvent their mothers’ wardrobes.