In the overwhelming red industrial monument of the Zollverein Coal Mine in Essen, with its gigantic conveyor belts, chimneys and cooling towers interwoven with pipes, there is a salt warehouse for utopias. In the 13-meter-high hall, a monumental walk-in snail by Ilya and Emilia Kabakov has been inviting visitors since 2001 to solve big and small problems with “projects” ranging from childishly surprising to fantastically absurd.

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